Why does even moisturiser sting?

The skin barrier is the outer layer of skin, made from cells and natural fats. The skin barrier keeps water in and chemicals out, a less glamorous job than the name of your serum suggests. Scratching can break that barrier, allowing fragrance, soaps and other irritants to enter more easily. In eczema, even treatment creams can cause immediate stinging or itching. Moisturisers can also trigger reactions to particular ingredients, so burning does not automatically mean an allergy.1345

How do I know if my skin barrier is damaged?

Clues include dry or flaky skin, rough patches, itching, tenderness, irritation and stinging when you apply skincare. You do not need a visible cut to have barrier damage. Harsh soaps, scrubbing and excessive exfoliation can contribute. Dermatitis, meaning inflammation of the skin, can also cause redness, dryness, itching and burning. These symptoms overlap, so burning alone cannot tell you whether the cause is barrier damage, irritation or an allergic reaction.23

Should I apply skincare to cracked skin?

Use care suited to the damage rather than applying your usual products indiscriminately. For broken skin around a picked pimple, reduce acne treatments temporarily and focus on gentle care. Retinol and glycolic acid can irritate skin, especially sensitive skin. For a small, superficial cut, follow wound care instead:36

  1. 1Wash your hands, then gently clean the cut with cool or warm water and a mild soap or cleanser.
  2. 2If it is bleeding, apply pressure with clean gauze or a washcloth until the bleeding stops.
  3. 3Apply petroleum jelly to keep the wound moist. A tube helps avoid introducing dirt and bacteria.
  4. 4Cover the cut with a sterile bandage. Change the bandage daily and keep the cut covered until it heals. Do not apply topical antibiotics.
7

What can I put on skin that is raw and irritated?

If a cosmetic causes a reaction, gently wash it off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can relieve the irritation. For dry, irritated skin, emollients are moisturising treatments that trap moisture under a protective film. Smooth them on gently in the direction of hair growth rather than rubbing. Apply after washing and whenever skin feels dry or tight, ideally three or four times daily.56

Creams are less greasy for daytime use; ointments suit very dry skin and nighttime use but should not be used on weeping eczema. Ask a pharmacist which preparation suits the affected area. Emollient washes do not foam like soap but still clean the skin, so bubbles are not a performance review. Rinse and pat dry. If you use a prescribed skin treatment, leave 20 to 30 minutes between that treatment and an emollient, and ask your doctor which goes first. Keep emollient soaked clothing and dressings away from flames and cigarettes.5

When should I get medical help?

Seek help for a severe product reaction that cool compresses or petroleum jelly do not relieve. If an emollient causes burning that persists after a few days, talk to a pharmacist, nurse or GP. Broken skin carries an infection risk. A cut that will not stop bleeding, is longer than three quarters of an inch or is more than a quarter inch deep needs immediate medical attention.1567

How should I test a new product?

Test on a small area such as the underside of your arm, not on the raw patch. Apply the normal amount twice daily for seven to 10 days. Leave it on for its usual duration; for cleansers, follow the label or rinse after five minutes. Stop if redness, itching or swelling develops. Repeated unexplained reactions can need medical patch testing to identify the trigger.6

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Practical tips for scratchingnewcastle-hospitals.nhs.uk
  2. 2Dermatitis: Types, Treatments, Causes & Symptomsmy.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Signs Your Skin Barrier Is Damagedhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Atopic dermatitis causesdermnetnz.org
  5. 5Emollientsnhs.uk
  6. 6How to test skin care productsaad.org
  7. 7How to treat minor burns and cutsaad.org