Why is exfoliating important?

Why is exfoliating skin important?

Skin already sheds dead cells naturally, so exfoliation assists an existing process rather than creating a new department. That shedding slows with age, which can leave the surface looking less bright. Gentle exfoliation helps remove the outermost layer of dead cells and refresh the skin's appearance. Aging skin also becomes thinner and more delicate, so removing more is not automatically better.14

The useful benefit depends on what you want to change. Surface exfoliation can improve rough texture and uneven tone. An exfoliant that works inside pores can help with blackheads and whiteheads. Smoother, brighter skin is a reasonable aim; exfoliation is not an entrance exam for having a skincare routine.23

Which kind of exfoliation should you choose?

Mechanical exfoliation uses a scrub, brush, sponge or cloth to physically remove dead cells. Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids to help dead cells shed. Scrubbing is not the gentler choice by default: mechanical exfoliation can be too irritating for dry, sensitive or acne prone skin.3

Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, loosen the bonds between surface skin cells. Lactic acid is a gentler AHA that also moisturizes, making it an option for sensitive skin. Glycolic acid is a stronger exfoliant that can improve surface texture, discoloration and fine lines, but needs a slow introduction. Beta hydroxy acids, or BHAs, work deeper in pores and help dissolve sebum, the oil your skin produces. Salicylic acid is a BHA suited to blackheads and whiteheads.2

How do you exfoliate safely?

1. 1Check your existing routine. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.
2. 2Follow the exfoliant's directions. For a scrub or rinse off exfoliator, use gentle, small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. Use short, light strokes with a brush or sponge.
3. 3Apply moisturizer immediately afterwards, because exfoliating can dry the skin.
4. 4Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day when using facial acids, which can increase susceptibility to sun damage.

There is no single schedule for every exfoliant. Gentle exfoliation once or twice a week can refresh aging skin. For glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night and increase only if your skin tolerates it. More aggressive exfoliation needs less frequent use. Follow product directions rather than treating a weekly schedule as permission to exceed them.234

What should you expect, and when should you stop?

Facial acids take time and regular use to improve skin's appearance. Increasing the amount or frequency beyond the directions can leave skin raw and irritated rather than speed up useful results. If a chemical exfoliator makes skin too dry or irritated, stop using it for a few days.25

Never exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds. Avoid strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark spots after skin injuries, because aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation. If you are unsure which method suits your skin, a dermatologist can help decide whether exfoliation is beneficial.3