An Asian girl's guide to skincare

Choose for your skin type

• Dry skin feels rough, itchy or flaky.
• Oily skin looks shiny and feels greasy.
• Combination skin is oily in some areas and dry in others.
• Sensitive skin can sting or burn after using a product.
• Normal skin is clear and not sensitive.

Look for products suited to those needs. If you get breakouts, look for "noncomedogenic" or "won't clog pores" on skincare and makeup labels. Moisturizer still belongs in an oily skin routine. Effective skincare can be inexpensive, even if the packaging looks qualified to charge rent.12

Your morning routine

1. 1Cleanse gently with your hands. Use your fingertips rather than scrubbing with a washcloth, then rinse and pat dry.
2. 2Apply an optional treatment after cleansing. If you use a morning serum, use one rather than layering several. Vitamin C can help with dark spots and sun damage, but does not replace sunscreen.
3. 3Apply moisturizer. For a basic routine without a treatment between cleansing and moisturizing, apply moisturizer while your skin is still damp to trap water.
4. 4Finish with broad spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 30 or higher. Apply it to skin not covered by clothing. Broad spectrum means protection against both UVA and UVB ultraviolet rays.

Your evening routine

1. 1Cleanse before bed to remove dirt, oil and debris. Limit face washing to twice daily and after sweating rather than repeatedly washing throughout the day.
2. 2Apply a treatment if you use one. Retinol and other retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives, belong in the evening treatment step. They can help acne, dark spots and fine lines. A pea sized amount of a retinol product is enough.
3. 3Apply moisturizer after your treatment. Retinol and other skincare products can dry the skin, so moisturize morning and evening. Sunscreen is not needed at night.

Which extra products are worth adding?

Toner is optional, which is inconvenient for a product named as though it has a job title. If you choose one, apply it after cleansing in the morning. Toners can dry or irritate sensitive skin. A separate eye cream is not essential; moisturizer is an alternative for that sensitive area. Face oils are mainly an option for dry skin and can contribute to acne. If used, apply face oil before moisturizer. Add products for a specific purpose, not simply to fill another step.3

Sunscreen matters at every skin tone

Darker skin has some natural protection from ultraviolet light, but not enough to prevent sun damage. Sunscreen helps protect against sunburn and several types of skin cancer, and helps stop dark patches worsening. Use it daily, including winter. Reapply every two hours while outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Combine sunscreen with shade, hats and protective clothing rather than relying on the bottle alone.156

Tinted mineral sunscreen is less likely to leave a white cast, so sun protection does not have to announce itself before you do. Mineral formulas use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide; tinted options containing iron oxides also protect against light that can worsen pigmentation. Give sunscreen about five to ten minutes to settle and blend in. For existing dark marks on exposed skin, choose broad spectrum SPF 50 or higher to help limit further darkening.57

Treat acne before it leaves more marks

Early acne treatment helps prevent worsening breakouts and reduces the risk of dark marks and raised scars in darker skin. For mild acne, salicylic acid helps unclog pores and prevent new breakouts. A retinoid can unclog pores, reduce inflammation and prevent pimples; benzoyl peroxide targets acne causing bacteria. Start benzoyl peroxide at 2.5%, because stronger products can cause dryness and flaking. If that strength irritates your skin, try every other day. Benzoyl peroxide can bleach fabric, but does not bleach your skin.2

Do not pick, squeeze or scrub pimples: these habits worsen acne or increase scarring risk. If breakouts cluster around your forehead and temples, hair oils could be contributing. Keep oils away from those areas or switch to hair products containing water or glycerin instead. Wash hats regularly to remove accumulated sweat, dirt and oil.2

What helps dark marks, and how long does it take?

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation means extra pigment left after inflammation or injury, such as a healed breakout. Anyone can develop it, but marks tend to be more intense and last longer in darker skin. They appear where the original inflammation occurred and can darken with sunlight. Avoid treating only the mark while new acne continues to create more.7

Options for treating pigmentation include azelaic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide and prescription treatments such as tretinoin or hydroquinone. The choice depends on the cause and depth of the pigment; combinations are sometimes needed. Improvement can take months, and some treatments take a year. Some spots fade substantially while others only lighten, and new ones can develop. Chemical peels, lasers and intense pulsed light can worsen pigmentation through skin injury. These procedures do not treat pigment deep in the skin, so have pigmentation assessed before booking a procedure.47

Pregnancy and hormonal dark patches

Melasma causes dark patches on sun exposed areas of the face, often symmetrically across the cheeks, forehead, nose or upper lip. It is common during pregnancy and with birth control pills or hormone replacement therapy, and sun exposure makes it more likely. Persistent facial darkening needs a clinician's assessment rather than assuming every patch is an acne mark. Melasma often fades over several months after pregnancy ends or a contributing hormone medicine is stopped, but can return with sun exposure or future pregnancies. Discuss medication changes with your clinician. Protect your skin year round and avoid strong midday sun.6

When to stop a product or see a dermatologist

Introduce few new products at once and avoid heavily fragranced formulas. Stop a product that causes irritation and arrange a dermatologist appointment. Darkened skin that is painful, itchy, hot, red or leaking blood or pus needs medical attention. Get help for persistent acne, troublesome pigmentation or a new growth unlike your other spots. For peels or laser treatments on darker skin, ask how much experience the dermatologist has treating people with your skin tone.2345