What are the benefits of squalene for skin?

What is squalene?

Squalene is a lipid, or fatty substance, naturally present in sebum, the oil made by your skin. It accounts for about 13% of human sebum. Squalene also occurs in animal and plant oils, including shark liver oil and olive oil.13

Sebum is a mixture, not just squalene: it also contains fatty acids, wax esters and cholesterol. One of sebum's normal jobs is reducing water loss from the skin surface. Sebum production declines with age, particularly after menopause, which helps explain why supporting moisture becomes more useful as skin gets older.4

What does squalene do for skin?

Squalene acts as an emollient, meaning it softens skin and helps it feel supple and flexible. Hydration is another useful benefit: reducing water loss helps the outer skin layer retain moisture. Experimental work involving squalene supplementation has also found reduced water loss in skin exposed to an irritating cleansing agent.1

Squalene has antioxidant activity, including the ability to neutralise singlet oxygen, a reactive form of oxygen involved in damage to skin surface oils. Much of the biological research on squalene and squalane involves laboratory experiments and animals. Moisture and softness are more practical reasons to choose a facial oil than expecting dramatic changes in skin ageing.13

Squalene itself can also undergo oxidation, a chemical change caused by exposure to oxygen and light. Its oxidation products can be measured to assess damage to skin surface oils. Antioxidant activity and resistance to spoiling in a bottle are different properties.5

Should you choose squalene or squalane?

Choose squalane for a stable moisturising oil, and look for a plant derived option if you want to avoid animal sourcing. Buy for moisture rather than an ambitious list of promises, which leaves the marketing department with less to do.2

How do you use squalane?

1. 1Apply lighter products, such as a toner or serum, first.
2. 2Layer squalane oil on top to help reduce moisture loss.

Squalane also comes in lightweight creams that can serve as a daytime moisturiser. A separate facial oil is an option, not a compulsory extra, so your routine does not need another job title.2

Who does squalane suit?

Squalane is an option for skin that still feels dry after moisturiser, especially if you dislike thick creams. Oily or acne prone skin does not automatically rule it out. Squalane is considered noncomedogenic, meaning unlikely to clog pores, but other oils in the same formula can cause blocked pores.2

For sensitive skin, eczema or contact allergies, pay attention to the whole formula. Fragrances, preservatives and dyes can trigger reactions. Squalane's anti inflammatory properties may help redness and swelling, but choosing a moisturising ingredient is not the same as choosing treatment for a skin condition.2

Can you use squalane with retinol?

Squalane and retinol can be used together, including in one product. Squalane itself does not contain retinol. If retinol is leaving your skin dry, a milder retinol formula is worth considering rather than relying only on extra oil.2