What can retinol improve?

  • Fine lines: retinol increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Texture and uneven tone: retinol encourages skin cell turnover and is used to improve texture and pigmentation.
  • Clogged pores and mild acne: retinol helps prevent pores becoming blocked with oil and dead skin cells.
  • Dark spots: retinol can lighten some pigmentation, although improvement takes months.
  • Noticeable pores: preventing blockages can make pores less prominent. Retinol does not remove the pores themselves.
12

Aim for improvements in tone and texture, not the complete renovation suggested by some skincare marketing. Retinol is a reasonable option for mild concerns, but deep or raised acne scars need a different assessment.12

How long do the benefits take?

Expect several weeks before you notice a change in how skin looks or feels. Fine lines and dark spots usually need several months. Breakouts can initially look worse, and pimples can continue during the first couple of months. Burning or significant irritation is a reason to stop, not something to count as progress.23

How should you use it?

Follow the directions on the product you own, rather than letting the word 'serum' appoint itself head of the routine. For retinol, the general starting routine is:3

  1. 1Test a small amount on a small area of skin before applying it across your face. Wait a couple of days and check for redness or itching.
  2. 2At night, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat skin dry. Avoid scrubbing.
  3. 3Apply a thin layer, keeping retinol away from your eyes, mouth and nostrils. General facial guidance is a pea sized amount, unless the product directs otherwise.
  4. 4Start every other night, or less often if needed, rather than beginning with nightly use.
  5. 5Finish with moisturizer. During the day, use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and seek shade.
123

Who should be careful?

Avoid retinoids during pregnancy. Very dry, allergy prone or persistently red skin is a reason to discuss alternatives with a dermatologist. Retinoids can worsen eczema through their drying effect. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, making a slow start and moisturizer especially useful.14

Dryness, peeling, redness and itching are possible side effects. Stop an over the counter product that stings or burns. If you already use a prescribed retinoid, ask your prescriber before adding another vitamin A product. See a dermatologist for moderate or severe acne scarring, acne linked to hormonal changes, or results that remain disappointing after consistent use.123

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Retinoid or retinol?aad.org
  2. 2Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Wrinkle remediesaad.org
  4. 4Topical retinoids (vitamin a creams)dermnetnz.org