What can retinol improve?
- Uneven tone and pigmentation: Retinol is used to improve uneven colour, including some pigmented spots.
- Texture: Retinol is used to improve an uneven skin surface.
- Fine surface wrinkles: Retinol can support collagen formation and reduce collagen loss. Collagen is a protein that helps give skin its structure.
Fine surface wrinkles are a more realistic target than erasing every visible sign of ageing, despite the industry's enthusiasm for treating a birthday as a technical fault. The evidence for cosmetic retinol improving facial ageing is limited, with weak support for a mild improvement in fine lines.2
Is Obagi retinol the same as prescription tretinoin?
No. Retinol and tretinoin belong to the retinoid family, which means they are related to vitamin A, but they are different ingredients. Retinol needs conversion in the skin to active retinoic acid; tretinoin is already that active form. Tretinoin has been investigated much more extensively for facial ageing. The family resemblance is real, but it does not make the names interchangeable, however convenient that would be for the packaging department.4
How long does retinol take to work?
A useful research reference is 24 weeks, not an Obagi results deadline. In 36 older adults with a mean age of 87, a 0.4% retinol lotion applied to the arms up to three times weekly improved fine wrinkles after 24 weeks compared with the lotion without retinol. Small biopsy groups also showed increases in a collagen precursor and substances that retain water in skin. Those results concern that lotion, age group and body area; facial cosmetic retinol benefits remain less certain.5
How should you start using it?
For retinol generally:
- 1Choose the lowest strength available rather than starting with the strongest option.
- 2Apply a minimal amount at night, initially on alternate nights.
- 3Use moisturizer to help reduce irritation, and increase frequency gradually only as tolerated.
- 4During the day, use sunscreen on exposed skin, seek shade and wear protective clothing.
What side effects should you watch for?
Topical retinoids frequently irritate skin and can increase the risk of sunburn. Excessive use causes redness and peeling; applying more is not a way to get more benefit. Stinging, burning and dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin, can also occur with skincare products. Stop applying a product that causes persistent irritation and seek medical advice if the inflammation does not settle. A smaller amount, alternate night use and moisturizer help limit irritation.3
Who should be careful with retinol?
Retinoids are an option for mild pigmentation irregularities and mild fine lines. People with dry skin or skin allergies are less suitable candidates. If your skin is already very red or inflamed, avoid retinoids and ask a dermatologist about alternatives. With darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks called hyperpigmentation, making a gradual start particularly useful. Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. If acne is linked to hormonal changes or you have moderate or severe acne scarring, see a dermatologist before trying a retinoid.1
Where this answer comes from
- 1Retinoid or retinol?aad.org
- 2Evidence for the Efficacy of Over-the-counter Vitamin A Cosmetic Products in the Improvement of Facial Skin Aging: A Systematic Reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 3Common skin lesions. Topical treatment of photodamagedermnetnz.org
- 4Evidence for the Efficacy of Over-the-counter Vitamin A Cosmetic Products in the Improvement of Facial Skin Aging: A Systematic Reviewpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov