Retinol for skin: benefits and how to use it

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the retinoid family. Retinoid is the umbrella term, not another word for prescription strength. Retinol is available without a prescription; tretinoin requires one. Adapalene, another retinoid used for acne, comes in both prescription and nonprescription formulations. These names describe different treatments, not interchangeable versions of the same bottle.1

What does retinol do for your skin?

Retinol helps skin shed surface cells and supports collagen, the protein that gives skin structure and support. Retinol and retinaldehyde can lighten sun related pigmentation and reduce fine surface wrinkles by slowing collagen loss and encouraging new collagen formation. The benefit is less obvious on aged skin that has not been exposed to the sun.23

• For acne, retinol helps prevent clogged pores. Pimples can continue during the first couple of months.
• For uneven tone, retinol can help lighten some dark spots, though improvement takes months.
• For fine lines, retinol can gradually improve their appearance. Expect a slower change than a moisturizer's temporary plumping effect.
• For noticeable pores, retinol helps prevent the buildup of oil and dead skin cells that makes pores look larger.

Severe raised or sunken acne scars need a different conversation: topical retinol does not reliably improve them. Cosmetic retinol is also not a treatment for skin cancer. Anti ageing products can carry extravagant claims, so the packaging sometimes has a more ambitious job description than the cream.24

Which strength should you start with?

Choose the lowest strength, least intense formula you can find rather than starting with the strongest option. There is no standard requirement for nonprescription products to disclose their retinol percentage, so a missing number does not tell you how strong the product is. Follow the product's own directions rather than borrowing instructions from a different retinoid.14

For topical retinoid medicines, creams are generally the least irritating format, while gels are the least noticeable on skin. Adapalene is generally less irritating than tretinoin. If you already use a prescription retinoid, follow your prescribed treatment plan rather than treating cosmetic retinol directions as a substitute.45

How do you apply retinol?

1. 1Test a small amount on a small patch of skin first. Wait a couple of days; do not introduce it across your face if the patch becomes very red or itchy.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer across your face, using about a pea sized amount unless your product or prescriber gives different directions. Keep retinol away from your eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Begin every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days if needed. Increase gradually only as your skin tolerates it.
5. 5Finish with a moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.

What should you use alongside retinol?

If retinol is irritating, a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can provide a buffer while allowing retinol to work. Avoid doubling up with a separate retinol serum and a retinol face cream. Choose products that complement each other, because a skincare routine does not need understudies. If you use vitamin C, a practical arrangement is vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.3

Use sunscreen every day, with at least SPF 30. Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, so also seek shade and wear protective clothing. Apply sunscreen to skin not covered by clothing. For sensitive skin, a sunscreen containing zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both is an option.13

How long does retinol take to work?

Look for initial improvements after about three months of regular nonprescription retinol use. Prescription retinoids can work faster for some people, but prescription strength is not necessary for most people seeking an anti ageing routine. Prescription acne treatment with topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer. For sun damage, topical tretinoin can improve fine wrinkles and pigmentation with use beyond six months.35

For stretch marks, retinol creams can take at least six months of regular use to produce noticeable results. Earlier treatment offers the best chance of improvement; older, deeper marks are harder to treat. Treatment can improve their appearance without removing them completely. Stretch marks also become less noticeable over time without treatment, so fading alone does not necessarily mean the cream caused it.6

Who should be careful with retinol?

Retinoids suit mild acne, mild pigmentation changes and mild fine lines. Dry skin, skin allergies or substantial redness and inflammation make them a less suitable starting point. See a dermatologist before trying a retinoid for moderate or severe acne scarring, or acne linked to menstrual periods or other hormonal changes. In darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, making a slow introduction and moisturizer particularly useful.1

Dryness, redness, peeling and irritation are common retinoid reactions, and the drying effect can worsen eczema. Excessive application can cause redness and peeling; use less and reduce frequency rather than treating peeling as the aim. Persistent dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin, needs medical advice. Severe acne with deep nodules or cysts also needs more than a topical retinoid alone.25

Do not use retinol or other retinoids during pregnancy, including nonprescription products. If you are trying to become pregnant, tell your obstetrician and dermatologist about your medications and prescription skincare so they can update your treatment plan. Ask about retinol before using it while breastfeeding. A pregnancy routine can focus on gentle cleansing, regular moisturizing and sunscreen rather than replacing retinol with another strong treatment.47