Retinol B3 serum: benefits and how to use it

What does a retinol serum do?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the wider retinoid family. Retinol increases skin cell turnover, helps prevent clogged pores and increases collagen production. Collagen helps give skin its structure, and these effects can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.124

Cosmetic retinol is used for uneven tone, pigmentation and texture. Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin are different products with their own directions and medical uses. Do not treat a cosmetic serum as a replacement for a prescribed acne treatment.13

The word "serum" is not a certificate of better results, despite its very serious sound. Cosmetic retinoids can improve fine surface wrinkles and some sun related pigmentation, but ambitious marketing is not a reason to expect dramatic changes.4

How do you apply it?

Before using retinol across your face, apply a little to a small area of skin. Wait a couple of days and check for redness or itching before adding it to your bedtime routine.2

1. 1Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
2. 2Apply a thin layer, following the amount on your bottle. General retinol guidance uses about a pea sized amount for the face, but that is not a product specific drop count.
3. 3Keep retinol away from your eyes, mouth and the inside of your nose.
4. 4Finish with a facial moisturizer. If you are prone to acne, choose one labelled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.

Begin every other night, or once every few days if your skin needs a slower start. Increase use gradually only as your skin tolerates it and within the bottle's directions. Applying more than needed increases the risk of redness and peeling rather than making a sensible starting routine.24

Use retinol at night and sun protection during the day. Apply sunscreen to exposed skin, seek shade and use protective clothing, including a wide brimmed hat. For sensitive skin, a sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is an option.1

How long does retinol take to work?

Retinol begins acting in skin cells before you can see a change. Allow several weeks for visible improvement in how skin looks and feels, and several months for changes in wrinkles. Some people find that dark spots lighten, but that also takes months.2

Early breakouts can continue while you adjust to retinol. For topical retinoid acne medicines, improvement can take 12 weeks or longer. That timeline concerns acne treatment generally, not a promised result from a particular Retinol B3 serum.23

Who should consider it?

A retinoid product is an option for mild fine lines, mild pigmentation irregularities or mild acne. Start with the least intense formula you can identify rather than choosing the strongest available. Cosmetic retinol percentages do not always appear on packaging.1

The skincare aisle offers plenty of retinol products, because apparently choosing one needed to be a separate project.1

Retinoids are a poor starting choice for skin that is already very dry, inflamed or prone to allergies. Their drying effect can worsen eczema. Persistent redness or inflammation deserves an assessment rather than another active ingredient. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, so introduce retinol slowly and use moisturizer.13

Can you use it during pregnancy?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. If you want acne treatment while pregnant, discuss the options with your obstetrician or dermatologist before starting a treatment. If you are breastfeeding, ask your healthcare provider before using retinol.125

What should make you stop or get help?

Dryness, itching, burning, redness and peeling are possible retinol side effects. Reduce frequency if irritation develops, and stop using the serum if irritation is substantial or persists. Persistent dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin, can need medical treatment. Do not increase use while your skin is irritated.24

For acne, see a GP or dermatologist if:

• Self treatment is not helping.
• You have many spots, deep painful lumps or scarring.
• Skin becomes hot, swollen and red, which can indicate infection; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.
• Acne is affecting your mental health.

If acne is your reason for trying the serum, wash gently twice daily and remove makeup at the end of the day. Avoid scrubbing, picking or squeezing spots: scrubbing can worsen irritation, and picking can cause scars.7