Retinol for skin tightening: what can it do?

What does retinol actually improve?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It increases collagen production and skin cell turnover. Collagen is the protein that gives skin structure, support and strength; declining collagen contributes to crepey, saggy and wrinkled skin. Retinol helps reduce fine surface wrinkles by supporting new collagen formation and limiting collagen loss.123

Should you choose retinol or prescription tretinoin?

Retinoid is the family name for vitamin A based skin treatments; retinol is one member, available without a prescription. Tretinoin is a prescription retinoid used for acne and sun related skin aging. Both can improve fine lines, but tretinoin has clinical trial evidence for improving wrinkles and uneven pigmentation in sun damaged skin. Those results belong to tretinoin, not automatically to every cosmetic retinol formula.345

Start with the lowest strength retinol formula you can find rather than jumping straight to tretinoin. Retinol percentages are not always disclosed on packaging, so an exact strength comparison is not always possible. Prescription treatment is not necessary for most people seeking improvement in aging signs, but a dermatologist can discuss it if cosmetic retinol has not helped.124

How long does it take?

Plan on about three months of regular cosmetic retinol use to start seeing improvements, with wrinkle changes taking several months. Tretinoin treatment can keep improving sun related aging signs over longer periods: significant improvement has been reported after four months, continuing over 24 months. Do not use that timeline as a deadline for dramatic tightening; the expected changes are gradual improvements in lines and skin appearance.25

How to use retinol

1. 1Test a little retinol on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before applying it more widely.
2. 2At night, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the package directions. As general guidance, apply a thin layer using about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding your eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Start every other night, or once every few days if needed, and increase gradually as tolerated.
5. 5Finish with moisturizer. If retinol irritates your skin, a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can help reduce irritation.
6. 6Use broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day. Add shade and protective clothing.

An elaborate routine is not necessary, even if the bathroom shelf has room for a small research department. Avoid doubling up with a separate retinol serum and a retinol containing moisturizer. The same aging skin routine can also help the neck and hands, but follow each product's directions rather than assuming the facial amount applies everywhere.2

Who should be careful?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. People with skin allergies, very dry skin or substantial redness should discuss alternatives with a dermatologist before starting. Retinoids can worsen eczema. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, making a slow start and moisturizer particularly useful.46

Dryness, redness, itching, burning and peeling are possible side effects. Excessive application increases redness and peeling, so do not apply more to chase faster results. Pause an irritating product rather than increasing use, and seek medical advice if the irritation persists. Persistent dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin, can need treatment.13