Best skincare products for Black skin

Which cleanser and moisturizer should you choose?

For dry skin, choose a hydrating cleanser. For oily or acne prone skin, choose a mild cleanser that removes oil. Match the cleanser to dryness or excess oil, not to how much ambition the bottle expresses. Add moisturizer when skin feels dry, including during dry winter weather. If you use a retinoid and need moisturizer, choose one labelled as not clogging pores.1

Which sunscreen works best on darker skin?

Choose daily sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum protection and water resistance. Broad spectrum means protection against UVA and UVB rays. Melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, provides some protection from ultraviolet light, but Black skin can still develop sunburn and skin cancer. Sunscreen also helps prevent sunlight from making dark spots darker.12

Tinted mineral sunscreen is a useful option, especially if dark spots are a concern. Mineral filters include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide; tinted formulas containing iron oxides also protect against visible light that can worsen pigmentation. Most tinted sunscreens avoid a white cast, so sun protection does not have to come with a costume change. Check the tint on your skin rather than choosing by SPF alone.12

For prolonged time outdoors, choose an SPF above 50. For dark marks left after inflammation on exposed skin, use SPF 50 or higher daily to limit further darkening. Give sunscreen time to settle and blend rather than judging its finish immediately. Reapplication matters too, especially when you sweat; mineral sunscreen needs frequent reapplication, usually every two to three hours.23

What should you buy for dark spots?

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation means dark marks left after skin inflammation or injury has healed. These marks are more common in darker skin, where they tend to be more intense and last longer. They appear at the site of the original problem and range from light brown to black. Sunlight can darken them, which makes sunscreen part of treating the marks rather than an unrelated extra.3

Vitamin C can reduce dark spots, while retinol can help with uneven tone and texture. Retinol belongs to the retinoid family of vitamin A based treatments. If acne is the main concern, adapalene is a retinoid available in some acne products without a prescription; other acne retinoids are prescribed.1

Other topical options for postinflammatory pigmentation include azelaic acid, hydroquinone, cysteamine and tretinoin. Improvement differs between treatments, and combinations are often needed for significant improvement in pigment within the outer skin layer. A dermatologist can help distinguish that pigment from deeper pigment and choose treatment. Chemical peels, lasers and intense pulsed light can help some surface pigmentation, but can also worsen it by injuring skin. They do not treat deeper pigment effectively.3

How should you use the products?

1. 1In the morning, wash with your mild cleanser. Wash again before bed and after sweating.
2. 2If using vitamin C, apply it after your morning wash.
3. 3Apply sunscreen after your other skincare and before makeup, 15 minutes before going outdoors.
4. 4If using a retinoid at night, wash and wait 20 to 30 minutes before applying it. If dryness is a problem, apply moisturizer after washing, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before the retinoid.

How long should you wait for results?

Allow at least 30 days of consistent use to assess a skincare product, unless it irritates your skin. Dark marks in darker skin tend to persist longer, so that first assessment is not a deadline for complete fading. Stop an irritating product rather than continuing through the reaction.1

When should you see a dermatologist instead?

Persistent warmth, burning or stinging, swelling, or acne like bumps that acne treatment does not clear deserve a dermatology appointment. Rosacea, a condition affecting the face and sometimes the eyes, can be missed in darker skin because flushing is less obvious. These symptoms need assessment, not an assumption that you need a stronger acne product. Eye irritation, swollen eyelids or light sensitivity also warrant assessment by a dermatologist or eye doctor. Have a new growth that looks unlike your other marks checked rather than treating it as another dark spot.24