Clean skincare for teens

Are natural and organic products better for teens?

No. Plants can contain substances that cause allergic reactions or are toxic, whether they are organically grown or not. Choose products for their intended use and ingredients, not because the packaging makes nature sound like a safety test. In the US, FDA has no regulatory definition of "natural" for cosmetic labels. USDA organic standards concern how agricultural ingredients are produced and the percentage of organic ingredients in a product. Organic cosmetics still have to meet the same cosmetic safety requirements as other cosmetics. Organic certification is not evidence that a moisturizer will suit a particular teen.24

Most cosmetic products and ingredients do not need FDA approval before sale; color additives are an exception. Manufacturers remain legally responsible for safety and proper labeling. Homemade cosmetics are also subject to safety requirements, and microbial contamination can make them unsafe. A small business, homemade formula or natural label is not a substitute for those requirements.4

What should a teen's daily routine look like?

Focus on products used consistently rather than collecting extra steps. An elaborate shopping list is not a requirement for effective skincare, even if it looks more convincing in a bathroom photo.1

1. 1Cleanse gently. Use a gentle, nonabrasive cleanser and apply it with your fingertips. For acne, wash up to twice daily and after sweating. Washcloths, sponges and scrubbing tools can irritate skin. Dry or sensitive skin can need only one wash in the evening.
2. 2Moisturize regularly. Choose a fragrance free moisturizer to help relieve dryness and itchiness. Continue moisturizing when using acne treatments, because benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid can cause dryness and irritation.
3. 3Protect skin each day. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Outdoors, apply it to skin not covered by clothing, seek shade and wear sun protective clothing. For acne prone skin, look for sunscreen labeled "noncomedogenic" or "won't clog pores."
4. 4At the end of the day, remove makeup and cleanse gently. Choose skincare and makeup labeled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores. Do not scrub or squeeze spots.

Which extras can teens skip?

Skip cosmetic retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids aimed at wrinkles or sun damage. These are not useful additions for young skin and can cause redness, burning or peeling. Acne treatment is a separate decision: a dermatologist can recommend a retinoid or salicylic acid when appropriate. A trend is not a reason to add a product, even when the video gives it a starring role. Fun packaging and a high price do not make skincare better, although both can give a shopping list remarkable confidence.1

What if a teen has acne?

Acne is common in teenagers and young adults. Spots develop when hair follicles, the openings where hair grows, become blocked with oil and dead skin cells. Bacteria in blocked follicles can cause inflammation and pus. Hormonal changes during puberty can contribute. Blackheads and pimples are not caused by dirt. Washing harder is not the answer. Stress can worsen acne, but it does not cause it. Chocolate and greasy foods are often blamed, yet there is little evidence that food has much effect on acne in most people.36

For acne, a pharmacist can advise on treatments applied to the skin, including benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Keep the basic routine alongside treatment rather than replacing moisturizer and sunscreen with more acne products. During acne treatment, choose gentle products labeled alcohol free. Avoid irritating astringents, toners and exfoliants, which can dry skin and make acne look worse. If hair is oily, shampoo more often and keep hair away from the face; hair oil can contribute to forehead acne.156

How long should acne treatment take?

Acne treatment can take several weeks to a few months to show a difference. Switching treatments too often can irritate skin and cause breakouts. Avoid picking, popping or squeezing spots: this makes acne take longer to clear and increases the risk of scars and dark marks. Avoid tanning outdoors and in tanning beds. Tanning can worsen acne, and some acne medicines make skin more sensitive to ultraviolet rays. Keep sun protection in the routine while treatment works.5

How should sensitive skin try new products?

Introduce one new product at a time. For sensitive skin, try a small amount on a limited area before applying it to the whole face. Added fragrance can trigger irritation or allergic reactions. If skin reacts to products bought without a prescription, see a dermatologist for help choosing suitable products.1

When should a teen get medical help?

See a doctor if:

• Acne is not improving with treatment bought from shops or pharmacies.
• There are lots of spots, deep painful lumps, scars or persistent dark marks.
• Skin is hot, swollen and red, which can indicate infection. Redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.
• Acne is affecting mental health, confidence or daily life.

A GP can offer prescription treatment or refer a teen to a dermatologist. Prescription options include treatments applied to the skin and medicines taken by mouth. Retinoid medicines such as adapalene and tretinoin reduce inflammation and oiliness and help prevent spots; their use for acne is different from buying cosmetic retinol for wrinkle prevention.6