Does bakuchiol stimulate collagen?

What does bakuchiol do to collagen?

Collagen is a protein that helps skin look smoother and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Bakuchiol increased type I and type VII collagen proteins in human dermal fibroblasts, cells found in the deeper layer of skin, under laboratory conditions. Retinol increased those proteins too. Bakuchiol also increased fibronectin, another component of the network that supports skin cells.12

A separate laboratory model of inflammation related skin aging found collagen promoting activity with supramolecular bakuchiol. That preparation combines bakuchiol, matrine and vitamin E, so keep it separate from plain bakuchiol when judging a product's claims.3

Will that translate into fewer wrinkles?

Small human trials have found improvements in fine lines, skin color and smoothness with bakuchiol products. One comparison with retinol enrolled 44 people, with seven dropping out, and found similar improvements with less peeling and burning. Wrinkle improvement and collagen production are related questions, not interchangeable answers, however convenient that would be for the front of a bottle.2

Think in weeks rather than days. Fibronectin increased after four weeks of using a bakuchiol formulation. A cream combining bakuchiol, melatonin and a vitamin C derivative improved wrinkles and firmness after 12 weeks of daily use. Those are different outcomes with different formulas: neither gives you a reliable deadline for collagen growth from a standalone bakuchiol serum. With a combination cream, the improvement cannot be assigned to bakuchiol alone.12

Should you choose bakuchiol or retinol?

Retinoids, the vitamin A family that includes retinol, remain the better studied choice for collagen support and visible aging. Bakuchiol is a reasonable option if retinol causes irritation and you want to try a gentler ingredient. Comparisons with prescription retinoids remain unsettled.24

Bakuchiol has no structural resemblance to retinoids, but can influence gene activity in similar ways. Its research includes both laboratory experiments and human trials, with some products combining several ingredients. The marketing category is neater than the research, which is an excellent arrangement for the marketing department.5

How do you use bakuchiol?

1. 1Apply bakuchiol once or twice daily. For twice daily use, apply it in the morning and evening.
2. 2Apply a bakuchiol serum before moisturizer. Apply a bakuchiol cream after other serums.
3. 3Wear sunscreen during the day, whether you choose bakuchiol or retinol.

Bakuchiol can be used with vitamin C. If you already use other active skincare products or prescription skin treatment, ask your dermatologist about adding bakuchiol rather than assuming every combination is suitable.4

Who should be careful?

Bakuchiol is generally gentler than retinol, but irritation and allergic reactions are still possible. Contact dermatitis, an inflammatory skin reaction, has been reported. Stop using the product if a reaction develops and seek medical advice. During pregnancy, speak to your healthcare provider before using bakuchiol: its safety during pregnancy remains uncertain.45