Why is bakuchiol called a retinol alternative?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Bakuchiol comes from Psoralea corylifolia, also called the Babchi plant, and belongs to a different chemical group called meroterpene phenols. Calling bakuchiol a retinol alternative describes its potential role in skincare, not its chemical identity. The phrase "retinol alternative" is a comparison, not a name change for the convenience of the marketing department.12

Researchers sometimes call bakuchiol a functional analogue of retinol, meaning a different molecule with some similar effects. In laboratory skin models, bakuchiol and retinol produced similar patterns of gene activity. Bakuchiol also increased several types of collagen, a protein that helps give skin its structure. Plant compounds can have functional similarities to vitamin A without sharing its structure, so similar biological activity does not make them the same ingredient.13

How does bakuchiol compare with retinol?

DifferenceBakuchiolRetinol
Chemical identityA meroterpene phenol, not a retinoid.A form of vitamin A.
Cosmetic benefitsCan improve wrinkles, pigmentation and firmness.Can improve skin texture, elasticity and thickness.
ToleranceGenerally gentler, but irritation is still possible.Can cause dryness, itching, burning and irritation.
12

Bakuchiol is a reasonable option to consider when retinol is difficult to tolerate, particularly for cosmetic concerns such as fine lines and uneven tone. Comparisons are not uniformly equal: bakuchiol has shown weaker effects than retinol on some measures. A similar job description does not make two ingredients identical colleagues.45

What results can you expect, and when?

In a clinical case study, a finished bakuchiol skincare product applied twice daily improved lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness after 12 weeks. That makes roughly three months a useful reference point for expectations, rather than expecting an immediate change. The results relate to that tested formulation and schedule; they are not a universal timetable for every bakuchiol product.1

How do you use bakuchiol?

  1. 1Apply bakuchiol once or twice daily. For twice daily use, apply it in the morning and evening.
  2. 2Apply a bakuchiol serum before moisturizer. Apply a bakuchiol cream after other serums.
  3. 3Wear sunscreen, whether you choose bakuchiol or retinol.
2

Bakuchiol can be used with vitamin C. If you already use other active skincare products or prescription treatments, discuss adding bakuchiol with your dermatologist.2

Does being different from retinol make bakuchiol safer?

Bakuchiol generally has fewer irritating effects than retinol, making it an option for sensitive skin. Irritation and allergic reactions are still possible; contact a healthcare provider if you develop a reaction. Pregnancy safety remains uncertain, so ask your healthcare provider before using bakuchiol during pregnancy. Bakuchiol is also not an established replacement for prescription retinoids used for more serious skin problems.24

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effectspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2Bakuchiol: Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skinhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Inspired by vitamin A for anti‐ageing: Searching for plant‐derived functional retinoid analoguespmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4The Use of Bakuchiol in Dermatology: A Review of In Vitro and In Vivo Evidencepubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Aging Without Side Effectspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov