Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. Here, retinoid means a treatment applied to the skin, not an oral medicine. Retinol and retinaldehyde commonly appear in cosmetics; medicines include adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene. Choose a retinoid for a specific goal, rather than the vague promise of "better skin" that lets a carton avoid committing to anything.1

Retinoids help with blackheads, whiteheads and pimples

Topical retinoids help unclog pores by normalising how skin cells shed inside them. They also reduce inflammation. Adapalene helps clear blackheads, whiteheads and pimples, making it an option for mild acne. Apply acne medication across the whole acne prone area, not just visible spots, to treat existing acne and help prevent the next breakout. Deep, painful pimples or acne that leaves scars need a dermatologist rather than treatment with shop bought products alone.25

Retinoids can help fade dark marks

Dark marks left after inflammation are called postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Retinoids can treat both acne and these marks, including in darker skin tones. Breakouts usually improve before the pigment fades. Irritation can worsen pigmentation, so tolerability matters as much as treating the acne. Moisturizer can help reduce irritation. If acne keeps leaving dark spots, a dermatologist can help control the inflammation and prevent more marks.25

For melasma, which causes patches of uneven pigmentation, tretinoin can be prescribed with a mild corticosteroid or in a cream that also contains hydroquinone. Treatment combines medication with sun protection rather than relying on a retinoid alone. A melasma treatment plan usually takes 3 to 12 months to show results, and longer standing melasma can take longer.4

Tretinoin can soften fine wrinkles

Tretinoin promotes new collagen formation and improves visible signs of sun related ageing, including wrinkling and uneven pigmentation. Tretinoin reduces fine wrinkles rather than removing them, a distinction that rarely gets top billing in skincare advertising. It does not repair sun damaged skin. Expect noticeable wrinkle improvement to take about 3 to 6 months. Continued treatment matters because improvement can gradually disappear after stopping.36

How do you use a topical retinoid?

  1. 1Follow your product's directions. Topical acne retinoids are generally applied at bedtime; prescribed tretinoin is used daily unless your prescriber directs otherwise.
  2. 2Cleanse gently and let the skin dry as directed. For tretinoin, apply a thin layer with clean fingertips, avoiding the eyes, mouth and corners of the nose.
  3. 3Use moisturizer to help manage dryness. Wear sunscreen during the day because topical retinoids can increase sun sensitivity.
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For acne treatment generally, fewer breakouts can appear within 4 to 8 weeks and clearing can take around 16 weeks. Some topical retinoids take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement. Give one acne product 6 to 8 weeks of directed use before adding another, rather than changing treatments every few days.12

Who should be careful?

Dryness, redness and peeling can occur, and retinoids can worsen eczema. Do not apply tretinoin to eczema or sunburn. Discuss other topical medicines, including benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, with your prescriber before combining them with tretinoin. If pregnant or trying to conceive, consult a dermatologist before starting acne treatment; discuss breastfeeding before using tretinoin. Contact your doctor for severe or persistent irritation, and immediately for hives, rash or pain at the treatment area.123

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Topical retinoids (vitamin a creams)dermnetnz.org
  2. 2Adult acne treatment dermatologists recommendaad.org
  3. 3Tretinoin Topical: MedlinePlus Drug Informationmedlineplus.gov
  4. 4Melasma: Diagnosis and treatmentaad.org
  5. 5Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practicepmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trialspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov