Which ingredients are retinoids?
Retinol, retinal, tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene all belong to the retinoid family. Some are natural forms of vitamin A or its derivatives, while others are synthetic compounds with related activity, which makes the family name tidier than the family itself. Retinoids influence how cells grow and develop. They are used in cosmetics and in treatments for acne, psoriasis and other skin diseases. Being a prescription treatment does not make a retinoid a steroid: the classification depends on the compound.1
How do retinoids differ from steroids?
| Difference | Retinoids | Topical corticosteroids |
|---|---|---|
| What they are | Natural or synthetic compounds related to vitamin A. | Steroid medicines applied to the skin. |
| Common uses | Cosmetic skin aging care and treatment of acne or psoriasis. | Reducing inflammation and itch in eczema or psoriasis. |
| How they act | Activate retinoid receptors, which influence gene activity and cell development. | Influence gene activity and protein production to reduce inflammation. |
| Side effects to distinguish | Vitamin A derivatives can irritate skin. | Possible effects include skin thinning, visible blood vessels, stretch marks and acne like breakouts. |
The terminology can be confusing because retinoid receptors belong to a broader receptor family that also includes steroid hormone receptors, which is more family history than a skincare question should require. A receptor is a protein that responds to a particular chemical signal, which is a modest job description for terminology that sounds like laboratory equipment. Sharing that receptor family does not turn vitamin A derivatives into steroids. Retinoids act through retinoic acid receptors and retinoid X receptors.1
Can you use one instead of the other?
Do not swap a prescribed corticosteroid for a retinoid just because both are skin treatments. Although both groups include treatments for psoriasis, they have different actions and directions. A corticosteroid prescribed for eczema targets inflammation and itch; a cosmetic retinoid is not a substitute for that treatment. Sharing a place in a bathroom cabinet does not make these treatments interchangeable, even if the tubes look equally serious.123
Do retinoids have the same risks as steroid creams?
Retinoids can irritate skin, so "not a steroid" does not mean "without side effects." For corticosteroids, strength, application site and treatment length affect safety. Strong corticosteroids used on the face or groin can cause skin thinning and stretch marks. Use a prescribed corticosteroid only on the areas instructed, as often as instructed and for the prescribed length of time. Do not extend treatment or apply it to another area on your own.13
Contact the prescribing dermatologist if corticosteroid treatment causes visible blood vessels, bruising, stretch marks, acne like breakouts or skin that looks thinner. For a child using a topical corticosteroid, seek immediate medical help for hives, breathing problems, or swelling of the face, lips, tongue or throat.2
Where this answer comes from
- 1Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatmentspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 2Eczema treatment: Corticosteroids applied to the skinaad.org
- 3Psoriasis treatment: Corticosteroids you apply to the skinaad.org
- 4Topical glucocorticoids and the skin--mechanisms of action: an updatepmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
