How to use an e.l.f. cleansing balm

What is the balm step for?

An oil based cleanser helps loosen makeup, sunscreen residue and excess skin oil. In a double cleanse, the water based cleanser follows to remove water soluble dirt and sweat. Waterproof makeup is a good reason for an extra cleansing step; a routine needing a larger cast is not. If one thorough wash with a gentle cleanser already does the job, there is no need to add another wash just to complete a routine.1

Water alone does not remove oily dirt effectively. Cleansers use surfactants, ingredients with one part that attaches to oil and dirt and another that allows them to wash away with water. These ingredients also affect how a cleanser feels, how much it foams and how easily it rinses off. Foam is therefore a formula characteristic, not a reason to keep washing until every cleanser produces bubbles.2

How to use it in a double cleanse

1. 1Apply the oil based cleanser and massage gently with your fingertips to loosen makeup, sunscreen and skin oil. Avoid scrubbing.
2. 2Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Hot water can increase dryness and irritation.
3. 3Leave your face damp, then gently massage in a water based cleanser.
4. 4Rinse away the second cleanser completely, including any remaining bubbles or residue.
5. 5Pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel rather than rubbing.

What goes on after cleansing?

After washing and gently patting dry, apply any skin medication or treatment, then moisturizer and/or sunscreen. Makeup comes after those steps. The cleanser belongs at the start of the routine, where it can remove makeup rather than supervise it. Adding more treatment products is not automatically useful: using too many can irritate skin, especially when several target signs of aging.4

Do you need it morning and night?

Remove makeup, including eye makeup, before bed. General acne care guidance is to wash with a mild cleanser on waking, before bed and after activities that make you sweat. That washing schedule does not mean you need a balm followed by another cleanser every time. Keep the makeup removal step tied to what needs removing, rather than automatically repeating the entire evening routine in the morning.5

What if your skin is dry or sensitive?

For dry or sensitive skin, choose a gentle cleanser without fragrance. Cream cleansers are generally less drying than foaming cleansers. Double cleansing can become too much washing: dryness, irritation and damage to the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps protect skin, are reasons to simplify rather than add another pass. A balm's texture alone does not tell you whether its formula will suit sensitive skin.1

Look for fragrance free rather than relying on the word "unscented." Unscented cosmetics can contain fragrance used to mask the smell of other ingredients. Fragrances are the most common source of cosmetic contact dermatitis, an irritated or allergic skin rash, and preservatives are another common cause. Any cosmetic ingredient can cause a contact reaction, so check for ingredients you already know you react to.6

Can you use a cleansing balm with acne?

Be cautious with an oil based cleanser if you are prone to acne, particularly when using it alone. General acne guidance favors an oil free makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser, and products labelled "won't clog pores" or "noncomedogenic." An oil based balm is not the same choice as an oil free remover. If breakouts appear after adding a product, stop using the suspected trigger; a dermatologist can help when the cause is difficult to identify.15

If you already use an acne treatment that stays on your skin, be careful about adding a medicated second cleanser. Combining acne cleansers with leave on acne products can cause excessive dryness and irritation. A stronger wash is not automatically a better partner for a prescription routine. Keep cleansing gentle and put skin medication after the cleansing step.24

What should you expect after washing?

The practical result to look for is removal of makeup, dirt and cleanser residue. Rinse thoroughly rather than leaving a film of cleanser behind. Cleansing also removes some natural skin oils, which can leave skin feeling tight. Apply moisturizer after washing to replace some of that lost moisture, and use your fingers rather than a scrubbing brush or rough washcloth to reduce unnecessary friction.3

When should you stop using it?

Stop using a product that causes burning, itching, swelling or a rash, and avoid the ingredient responsible if you know it. Cosmetic reactions do not always happen immediately. Irritation can develop after repeated exposure, and an allergic rash can appear more than 12 hours after contact. An allergy can also develop after years of using a cosmetic without previous problems.6

Contact dermatitis can make skin itchy, blistered, dry or cracked. On lighter skin it can look red; on darker skin it can appear dark brown, purple or grey. Speak to a pharmacist if the rash is troubling you. See a doctor if symptoms are persistent, keep returning or are severe. If the cause remains unclear or treatment is not helping, a dermatologist can investigate further, including testing for contact allergy.67