These are general starting tips for cosmetic retinol; if you use an acne medicine such as adapalene or tretinoin, follow its directions and ask your prescriber before changing the treatment.4
Can retinol cause acne breakouts?
Yes, acne can look worse when you first start retinol, sometimes called a retinol purge. Retinol helps prevent clogged pores, but pimples can continue during the first couple of months. Burning, redness, itching and peeling are also possible, so worsening skin is not automatically just a purge. Some conditions that resemble acne need a different treatment; a dermatologist can check what the bumps actually are.14
How often should I use retinol when starting?
Start cosmetic retinol once every few days at bedtime, rather than every night. Increase gradually as your skin tolerates it, following the package directions. Using too much retinoid can cause redness and peeling. For prescription treatment, your dermatologist can help adjust the amount, frequency or moisturizer order if irritation develops.145
How to apply retinol without overdoing it
- 1Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your face dry. Do not scrub.
- 2Apply a thin layer of cosmetic retinol across your face, using about a pea sized amount. Keep it away from your eyes, nose and mouth.
- 3Finish with a moisturizer labelled noncomedogenic, meaning unlikely to clog pores. Use moisturizer daily if your skin feels dry.
- 4During the day, use a noncomedogenic, broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and seek shade.
Moisturizer can help skin tolerate drying acne treatments, even when skin feels oily. Moisturizer belongs in acne care, despite the skincare aisle's enthusiasm for dividing everything into opposing teams. Look for descriptions such as oil free or noncomedogenic rather than assuming every moisturizer will cause spots.6
What if I also use other acne products?
If your product is adapalene, avoid adding another retinoid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, abrasive cleansers or strongly drying products: these can add irritation. Adapalene can be used with certain other acne medicines, including benzoyl peroxide, but follow your treatment plan rather than assembling a new combination yourself. Gentle cleansing is part of acne care, even if it rarely gets a dramatic product launch.23
How long should I wait for fewer breakouts?
Acne treatment generally takes at least 6 to 8 weeks before you start seeing fewer breakouts. Topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement. That waiting period applies to a tolerable treatment, not to severe irritation. Avoid picking or squeezing spots while you wait, because doing so can cause scars.347
Should I stop retinol if my acne gets worse?
A few early pimples alone do not necessarily mean you need to stop. Irritation sometimes does require stopping the product. For adapalene, stop and consult your doctor if irritation is severe or does not improve. See a doctor for deep, painful spots, scarring, lots of breakouts, hot and swollen skin, or acne that is not improving with self treatment or is affecting your mental health.1235
Retinoids can worsen eczema, and sensitive or allergy prone skin needs extra care. If you are pregnant or planning pregnancy, discuss retinoid use with your clinician before continuing. Stop adapalene if you think you are pregnant, and check with your doctor before using it while breastfeeding.127
Where this answer comes from
- 1Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
- 2Adapalene Gels and Cream – Differin and Epiduodchft.nhs.uk
- 3Acnenhs.uk
- 4Acne: Diagnosis and treatmentaad.org
- 5Follicular disorders. Topical therapy for acnedermnetnz.org
- 6Moisturizer: Why you may need it if you have acneaad.org
- 7Topical retinoids (vitamin a creams)dermnetnz.org