How to control oily skin

Why is your skin oily?

Sebum is the oil your sebaceous glands produce to lubricate and protect skin. During puberty, rising testosterone can increase production in both boys and girls. Skin naturally becomes oilier in the teenage years, and the right routine can reduce shine and breakouts. Genetics, hormone fluctuations, warm or humid weather and stress also influence oiliness. Your skin type can change with age, so a routine that suited you years ago does not automatically suit you now.1245

What should your daily routine look like?

1. 1Wash in the morning with a mild cleanser and lukewarm water. Use gentle movements rather than scrubbing. Hot water and rough washing can irritate skin and make pores look more noticeable.
2. 2Use an oil free moisturizer. If your skin feels dry, choose a fragrance free, water based moisturizer rather than trying to tolerate the dryness.
3. 3Apply sunscreen every day. Look for broad spectrum protection, water resistance and SPF 30 or higher. Use shade and protective clothing as well.
4. 4At the end of the day, completely remove makeup and gently cleanse again. Choose skincare and makeup labelled noncomedogenic, meaning less likely to block pores.
5. 5After exercise, wash away sweat. If you have acne, shower as soon as possible after exercising because sweat can irritate it.

Cleansing keeps skin clean but does not prevent new acne spots, which is a narrower job description than some bathroom shelves suggest. For acne prone skin, avoid repeatedly washing the affected areas throughout the day: more than twice daily can irritate skin and worsen symptoms. Wash your hair regularly and keep it from falling across your face.24

How do you reduce shine during the day?

Press an oil absorbing sheet onto shiny areas instead of rubbing it across your face. Rubbing spreads oil and can irritate skin. Blotting removes surface oil, so the paper has a cleanup job, not an executive role in oil production. Mattifying makeup, powders, moisturizers and sunscreens can also help with visible shine. Avoid touching your face unnecessarily, which spreads oil around.1

Which products should you choose?

If you use toner, choose a soothing formula rather than a harsh astringent. Alcohol based products can irritate skin and increase oil production. Test a new product on your inner arm before putting it on your face. Skin oils and cleansing routines built around oil based cleansers suit some people but cause breakouts in others; neither is an automatic solution for oily skin.1

Do you need salicylic acid or retinol?

For clogged pores, a salicylic acid cleanser can help loosen blockages. Some formulas are gentle enough for daily use. If yours dries or irritates your skin, alternate it with a mild cleanser: use the mild cleanser in the morning and the salicylic acid cleanser before bed. Salicylic acid alone is not enough for many people with acne.6

Retinol or retinyl palmitate can help make pores less noticeable when oily skin or mild acne contributes to their appearance. Apply before bed. Waiting 30 minutes after washing before applying can help reduce irritation. Do not use retinol or retinyl palmitate during pregnancy or breastfeeding.6

If spots are the main problem, a pharmacist can help you choose an acne treatment such as benzoyl peroxide. Low concentration products are an option for mild acne, but benzoyl peroxide can bleach clothing. Treatment choice depends on acne severity. A cleanser for shine and a medicine for acne have different jobs, so do not judge an acne treatment only by how matte your face looks.24

Oiliness and clogged pores can make them look larger. Gentle cleansing, treating acne and protecting skin from sun damage help address those contributors. Scrubbing, picking and squeezing can irritate skin and make pores more noticeable.16

How long does oil control take?

Blotting handles oil already on the surface; routine changes take time. If there is no improvement after a month or two, consider getting help from a dermatologist. Acne treatments can take several weeks or months to show results, with some taking up to eight weeks before a visible difference. Treatment sometimes needs to continue for six months. Ask your pharmacist how long to use the particular treatment you choose.12

When should you stop or get medical help?

If a product makes skin sore or irritated, do not respond by scrubbing or exfoliating harder. Return to gentle cleansing and seek advice about an alternative treatment if irritation persists. Azelaic acid is sometimes used for acne when benzoyl peroxide or prescription retinoids cause irritating or painful side effects.24

• See a GP if acne is not improving with self treatment, you have many spots, or spots are deep, painful or causing scars.
• Get medical help for hot, swollen or red skin that could indicate infection. Redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.
• Seek help if acne affects your mental health, not just when it looks severe.
• Discuss acne that suddenly begins in adulthood alongside irregular periods or excessive body hair, because that combination can indicate a hormonal imbalance.

Oiliness with recurring flaky patches around the eyebrows, sides of the nose, hairline or scalp deserves assessment rather than stronger oil stripping. Seborrheic dermatitis is a recurring inflammatory skin condition that affects these oily areas and can produce both oily and dry facial skin. It often needs treatment directed at the condition, with ongoing maintenance in adults.7

Prescription acne treatments can reduce oiliness as well as spots. Options include topical retinoids such as adapalene or tretinoin, while severe acne sometimes needs specialist treatment with isotretinoin. These are acne medicines, not routine purchases for shine alone. Isotretinoin has significant potential side effects and requires a specially trained prescriber.34