How to make niacinamide serum at home

Why isn't powder and water enough?

Dissolving the ingredient addresses only one part of making a serum. Cosmetic safety also depends on the other ingredients, their concentrations, the finished product's stability, microbial contamination, preservation and its container. A powder to water ratio alone is not a complete serum recipe. There is no specific mixing method, preservative dose or storage period to use here: those details need to be established for the formula you intend to make.2

Water and raw ingredients can introduce harmful bacteria or fungi. An ineffective preservative system, poor manufacturing conditions and packaging that fails to protect the contents can also contaminate a cosmetic. Clean equipment and a clean bottle address parts of the problem, not the whole problem. Cosmetics do not have to be sterile, but microbial contamination can make them harmful.34

What should you check before making a batch?

1. 1Start with the complete formula. Identify every ingredient and its concentration, rather than choosing only a niacinamide percentage.
2. 2Check the finished product's safety. Include stability, microbial contamination, how the preservatives work and the packaging.
3. 3Check the manufacturing conditions. Water quality, equipment cleanliness and measures to prevent contamination matter.
4. 4Establish storage and use instructions before using the serum. Do not invent an expiry date for an unassessed batch.

What strength should you look for instead?

Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less. Start with a low concentration and introduce it slowly if your skin is sensitive. A finished moisturizer containing niacinamide is another option, so using the ingredient does not require a separate serum. An inexpensive finished product can be effective, even without the satisfying ceremony of making it yourself.56

What can niacinamide do, and how long does it take?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, also called nicotinamide. Topical formulations can improve hydration, uneven pigmentation and signs of skin ageing. A 2% niacinamide moisturizer reduced oil production over four to six weeks in a clinical trial. A separate trial using 5% topical niacinamide found improvements in pigmentation, texture and fine lines over 12 weeks. These are useful expectations for formulated products, not a timetable for an improvised mixture.17

How do you use a finished niacinamide product?

1. 1Patch test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before wider use.
2. 2Follow the product's directions. General niacinamide guidance allows once or twice daily use after gentle cleansing.
3. 3If frequent application causes excessive dryness, reduce use to once daily or every other day.
4. 4Stop using the product if it causes itching, burning or redness.
5. 5Wash your hands before application, keep the container clean and store the product as directed.

Do not add water to a finished serum to dilute it. Adding water can introduce microorganisms and dilute the preservatives that keep them from growing. Niacinamide also does not replace sunscreen or prevent sunburn.13

How do you make a face serum at home?

The same formulation and contamination checks apply to other homemade face serums. In the United States, making cosmetics at home is legal, but the manufacturing environment must not make the product unsafe. If you plan to sell or give a serum to consumers in Great Britain, its safety must first be checked by a qualified safety assessor. Giving a serum away still counts as making it available to consumers, so the free sample does not get a paperwork holiday.24