Niacin vs niacinamide vs nicotinic acid: what's the difference?

What does each name mean?

A vitamin B3 headline is less specific than an ingredient list, even if the headline gets the better typography. For a skincare product aimed at hydration, oil control or pigmentation, look for niacinamide or nicotinamide rather than assuming every B3 form serves the same purpose.4

What can niacinamide do for skin?

Niacinamide helps the skin barrier retain water, improving hydration. Its anti inflammatory action and ability to reduce sebum, the skin's natural oil, can help with acne and shine. Topical studies also found improvements in dark spots, red blotchiness, texture and fine lines. Moisturizers containing nicotinamide improved barrier function in people with rosacea, reducing their reaction to irritants. Niacinamide is often tolerated by people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids.3

The studied strengths give useful starting points: a 2% moisturizer reduced oil production over four to six weeks, while a 5% topical preparation improved several signs of skin ageing over 12 weeks. A 4% gel also performed similarly to 1% clindamycin gel in one trial involving 76 people with moderate acne. Those results concern particular preparations, not every product containing the ingredient.3

How should you use niacinamide?

Niacinamide comes in cleansers, moisturizers and serums, so a separate serum is not an admission ticket to using the ingredient. Avoid adding several products containing niacinamide at once.5

1. 1Choose a low concentration if your skin is sensitive. Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less.
2. 2Test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before broader use.
3. 3Cleanse gently, then use niacinamide during your routine. General guidance allows application after moisturizer or combining a serum with moisturizer.
4. 4Use once daily initially; niacinamide can generally be used once or twice daily, in a morning or evening routine.
5. 5If an acne gel used twice daily causes excessive dryness, reduce application to once daily or every other day.

Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid or a moisturizer containing ceramides. Niacinamide does not act as sunscreen and does not prevent sunburn. Rare topical side effects include itching, redness, mild burning and allergic reactions; stop using a product that causes a reaction.35

Are supplements interchangeable with skincare?

No. Nicotinic acid supplements can cause temporary redness, burning, itching or tingling, usually at doses above 30 to 50 mg. Flushing happens when skin blood vessels widen. Topical preparations containing a nicotinic acid derivative and nonivamide are also used to increase local blood flow for capillary blood collection; they are not equivalent to a niacinamide moisturizer.146

Most people get enough niacin from food. Do not take high dose niacin for cholesterol without your clinician's approval: risks include liver disease, high blood sugar and low blood pressure. Oral nicotinamide can also raise blood sugar and lower blood pressure. Pregnancy and breastfeeding nutritional needs are 18 mg and 17 mg daily respectively; those are dietary requirements, not skincare concentrations or treatment doses.13