Niacinamide versus nicotinamide: what's the difference?

Which names mean the same thing?

For skincare, treat niacinamide and nicotinamide as interchangeable ingredient names, not competing treatments. There is no reason to choose a product just because it says nicotinamide rather than niacinamide, even if the longer word looks more comfortable on a laboratory door. The name alone does not tell you the concentration, texture or directions of the finished product.3

What does niacinamide do?

Niacinamide helps cells make NAD, a molecule involved in energy production and repair. NAD also supports processes that manage oxidative stress, the damage associated with reactive molecules in cells. These cellular roles help explain why the ingredient has uses in both skincare and medicine. They do not make a cosmetic serum interchangeable with an oral treatment.13

On skin, niacinamide can improve hydration by reducing water loss through the outer skin layer. Topical uses also include reducing oiliness and improving uneven pigmentation, fine lines and texture. Niacinamide has anti inflammatory effects and may help acne. Both names refer to these same potential benefits, so there is no separate list of nicotinamide benefits to weigh against niacinamide.2

What strength should you use, and when will it work?

Useful results have been seen at concentrations of 2% to 5%. A 2% moisturiser reduced facial oil production over four to six weeks. A 5% topical formula improved fine lines, pigmentation, texture and red blotchiness over 12 weeks. Those are examples of studied formulas and timelines, not a deadline for every product carrying either name.2

Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, including by some people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids. For an acne gel used twice daily, excessive dryness is a reason to reduce application to once daily or every other day. Niacinamide does not prevent sunburn or replace sunscreen.2

Using both names is not a reason to add a second product, because spelling does not need its own step in a skincare routine.3

Does the difference matter for supplements?

The distinction that matters is nicotinamide versus nicotinic acid, not nicotinamide versus niacinamide. Nicotinic acid taken for cholesterol can cause flushing: warmth, redness, itching or tingling. Nicotinamide does not have the same flushing effect. Too much niacin can also cause liver damage, increased blood sugar and other serious problems.24

Oral nicotinamide still has possible side effects, including increased sweating, raised blood sugar and low blood pressure; very high doses can cause nausea. Speak with your healthcare provider before starting supplements. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, ask which amount is appropriate rather than choosing a dose from a skincare claim.24