How does it help oily and dry areas?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. It reduces water loss through the skin and improves hydration and flexibility. It also supports production of ceramides and other fats that help maintain the skin barrier, the outer layer that keeps moisture in and unwanted substances out. For combination skin, that makes moisture retention a benefit alongside oil control, rather than an opposing goal. Treat the oily and dry areas as two needs within one routine, not a dispute that needs two bathroom cabinets.2

What percentage should you choose?

A product containing 2% niacinamide is a reasonable starting choice if shine is your main concern: that strength has reduced facial oil production in clinical testing. Concentrations of 4% and 5% have also been studied for other concerns, including acne, uneven pigmentation and skin texture. Choose the strength for your concern rather than assuming the largest percentage is necessary. Niacinamide can be part of a moisturizer, so using it does not automatically require adding a separate serum.1

How should you use it?

  1. 1Test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before starting, particularly if you are concerned about a reaction.
  2. 2Cleanse gently, then use niacinamide within your usual moisturizing routine. A serum can be applied after moisturizer or combined with moisturizer.
  3. 3Start once daily, in the morning or evening. Niacinamide can generally be used once or twice daily, but sensitive skin benefits from a slow start.
  4. 4If twice daily use causes excessive dryness, reduce to once daily or every other day.
  5. 5Continue sunscreen during the day. Niacinamide does not work as sunscreen or prevent sunburn.
13

What results should you expect?

Allow about four to six weeks to assess changes in shine and oiliness; that is the testing period in which a 2% niacinamide moisturizer reduced sebum, the skin's natural oil. Changes in pigmentation and texture have been observed over 12 weeks with 5% niacinamide. Use those times as checkpoints for those specific concerns, rather than expecting every benefit at once.1

Niacinamide can help their appearance by supporting smoother, clearer skin.3

Can you use it with other skincare?

Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, ceramide moisturizers, retinol and glycolic acid. It can also soothe irritation associated with strong active ingredients. Avoid stacking several niacinamide products at once: a cleanser, serum and moisturizer containing the same ingredient are not required. Compatibility is not a reason to add every possible partner to your routine.3

What if your skin reacts?

Niacinamide is generally gentle, but itching, mild burning, redness and allergic reactions can occur. Stop using a product that causes these symptoms rather than increasing its frequency. If you have sensitive skin, start with a low concentration. A history of tolerating niacinamide does not mean every formula containing it will suit your skin.3

Would a niacinamide mask help?

A niacinamide mask can help address shine, but it is an optional addition, not a replacement for cleansing, moisturizing or sun protection. For dry areas, look for moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Avoid masks with fragrance, essential oils or rubbing alcohol. Follow the label's application time, and avoid duplicating exfoliating ingredients already in your routine. Wash a mask off immediately if it causes itching, burning or stinging. See a dermatologist if your skin feels worse after using it.4

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Nicotinamidedermnetnz.org
  2. 2Niacinamide and its impact on stratum corneum hydration and structurepmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3Niacinamide: What It Is and Skin Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Do facial masks work, and should I add one to my skin care routine?aad.org