Glycerin: which should you choose
What is the difference?
| Feature | Panthenol | Glycerin |
|---|---|---|
| Main moisturizing role | Attracts water as a humectant. | Attracts and retains water as a humectant. |
| Vitamin connection | Associated with vitamin B5; its moisturizing role is physical, not nutritional. | Used for its water attracting properties. |
| What complements it | Occlusive ingredients that reduce water loss. | Occlusive ingredients that reduce water loss. |
| What determines the product's feel | The finished formula, rather than the ingredient name alone. | The finished formula, rather than the ingredient name alone. |
Humectants draw water from deeper skin layers and, to a limited extent in humid conditions, from the air. In low humidity, most of that water comes from within the skin. A humectant alone can leave damaged, very dry skin drier if the outer layer cannot hold the water it attracts.1
That is why moisturizers usually combine humectants with occlusives, which reduce evaporation. Petrolatum, mineral oil and dimethicone are examples. A moisturizer you like using regularly is a better practical choice than one you avoid, even if its label reads like a scientific acceptance speech.1
Which should you choose for dry skin?
Dry skin is not simply a shortage of oil. A damaged skin barrier loses water and cannot bind and hold it efficiently. Harsh soaps, environmental exposure and some medicines, including retinoids, can contribute. The useful choice is a formula that addresses moisture retention and suits the area being treated.3
For mild dryness, a lotion can be suitable; for dry, thick or scaly areas, an ointment offers a longer lasting protective effect. Creams sit between them, with a lighter feel than ointments. Choose the texture you will actually use, rather than awarding the bottle a trophy for having the longest name.2
How should you use the moisturizer?
- 1Apply a leave on moisturizer immediately after bathing to help retain water already in the skin.
- 2Adjust application to dryness. Slightly dry skin may need only a light moisturizer at night; very dry skin can need a more occlusive product more frequently.
- 3Reapply regularly if needed. Moisturizer benefits are greatest during the first six hours after application, and two to three applications daily can help maximize them.
What if your skin is sensitive?
Neither ingredient name tells you whether the whole product will suit sensitive skin. Fragrances and preservatives can cause contact allergy, while people with eczema or rosacea can experience burning or stinging from moisturizers. Stop the product if contact dermatitis develops. Suspected allergy can be investigated through medical patch testing. Very occlusive products can also aggravate acne or folliculitis, inflammation around hair follicles.2
Where this answer comes from
- 1Moisturizers: Do they work?health.harvard.edu
- 2Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
- 3Vehicles for Drug Delivery and Cosmetic Moisturizers: Review and Comparisonpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
