Skincare for young girls: what they actually need

Does her age change the routine?

Acne can appear before the teenage years. Between ages 7 and 12, it commonly starts as comedones, meaning blackheads and whiteheads, across the forehead and central face. Acne at this age can be an early sign of puberty. Acne between ages 1 and 6 is very rare and needs medical assessment rather than a teen acne shopping list. Most children with acne do not need hormone investigations, but unusually early acne, rapid growth, early sexual development or severe acne can prompt a doctor to investigate further.2

What should she use morning and evening?

Young skin benefits from fewer products used consistently, even if the shopping basket has other ambitions. For dry or sensitive skin, washing once daily in the evening can be enough; skin with acne generally benefits from gentle cleansing morning and evening.1

1. 1Cleanse gently. Use a gentle cleanser without scrubbing. In the evening, remove makeup as well.
2. 2Apply moisturizer after washing. Choose a fragrance free moisturizer; for acne, an oil free option is useful.
3. 3Apply sunscreen during the day. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and cover exposed skin.

Makeup wipes do not replace a face wash, despite their impressive commitment to looking like a shortcut.4

How much sun protection does she need?

Broad spectrum means protection against both UVA and UVB rays. SPF measures UVB protection, so do not choose by SPF alone. On UK sunscreen labels, look for SPF 30 or higher and at least four stars for UVA protection; a UVA circle indicates the EU standard. Check that the sunscreen has not expired. Children's skin is more sensitive than adult skin, and sun protection matters on cloudy days as well as sunny ones.5

Apply sunscreen generously to uncovered areas, including the face, neck, ears and backs of hands. A thin layer gives less protection. For an outing long enough to risk burning, apply it 30 minutes before leaving and again just before going out. Reapply every two hours outdoors, and straight after swimming, sweating or towel drying, even with water resistant sunscreen. Follow the product's directions.5

Sunscreen is only part of protection: use shade, suitable clothing and a hat that shades the face, neck and ears. In the UK, take particular care between 11am and 3pm from March to October. Babies under six months should stay out of direct strong sunlight.5

Which products should stay off the shopping list?

Skip cosmetic retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids marketed for wrinkles, sun damage or uneven tone. These are not routine essentials for children and can cause redness, burning or peeling. Acne treatment is a separate decision: a dermatologist can recommend salicylic acid or a retinoid when appropriate. Introduce one new product at a time. For sensitive skin, try a small amount on a limited area before applying it across the face.1

What if she has eczema or very sensitive skin?

For eczema, choose fragrance free rather than unscented products. Unscented can mean fragrance is masked, not absent. Use a mild cleanser rather than bar soap, which can dry and irritate the skin. Products carrying the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance are another option to consider, and her dermatologist can suggest suitable choices. For sunscreen, look for zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, no fragrance, broad spectrum protection and SPF 30 or higher.6

An eczema reaction can appear hours or days after using a product, so a comfortable first application does not settle whether it suits her. If a product causes redness, burning or peeling, stop using it. Persistent reactions or sensitivity to acne products deserve a dermatologist's assessment.16

What changes when acne starts?

Puberty increases oil production. Oil and dead skin cells can block pores, where bacteria contribute to inflammation. For mild blackheads, whiteheads or pimples, a pharmacist can help choose an acne treatment. Benzoyl peroxide tackles bacteria; salicylic acid helps clear blocked pores. Keep moisturizer and sunscreen in the routine rather than replacing them with acne products. Both benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid can cause dryness and irritation.134

For sensitive skin, benzoyl peroxide can start at a low concentration of 2.5%; higher concentrations are more likely to cause dryness and irritation. Apply it across the affected areas, not just individual spots. A clinician can also recommend a topical retinoid, a vitamin A derived medicine such as adapalene or tretinoin. These treatments are applied across affected skin. Retinoids are often introduced two or three times weekly, then increased as tolerated under the treatment plan.2

Acne treatment takes at least one to two months to produce significant improvement. Regular use for about three months gives a treatment a fair opportunity to work; a spot treatment does not mean a pimple will disappear overnight. If acne remains uncontrolled after three months, arrange an appointment with her pediatrician or doctor, who can refer her to a dermatologist.24

Which habits help without adding products?

• Avoid picking or squeezing spots, which can cause scars. Scrubbing can irritate skin and make acne worse.
• For acne, choose skincare and makeup labelled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores.
• Wash after sweaty sports or exercise, and regularly clean items that touch the face, including helmets, phones, makeup brushes and pillowcases.
• Take acne seriously if it is upsetting her. Anxiety, depression or reduced confidence are reasons to seek help, not reasons to wait for worse spots.

When should she see a doctor?

Do not wait three months if spots are deep, painful, numerous or leaving scars or dark marks. Seek medical help for hot, swollen or red skin that could indicate infection; redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin. Prescription options include medicines applied to the skin and, for more severe acne, oral medicines. The choice depends on her needs, rather than simply moving to the strongest product available.13