Skincare for young teens: what to use and what to skip

What changes during the early teen years?

Puberty increases the activity of the skin's oil glands. Oil and dead skin cells can block hair follicles, the openings where hair grows, and bacteria can contribute to inflammation. Acne can appear on the face, neck, chest, shoulders and back. More oil or new spots are reasons to adjust skincare, not to scrub harder. Young teens without acne can stay with the basics; curiosity about skincare does not create a need for treatment.23

What should a young teen's daily routine look like?

1. 1Cleanse gently. Use a mild cleanser and your fingertips, rather than a washcloth, sponge or scrubbing tool. For oily or acne prone skin, wash in the morning and evening, and after sweating. Dry or sensitive skin can need only one wash in the evening.
2. 2Apply moisturizer after washing. Choose a fragrance free moisturizer to help relieve dryness. Continue moisturizing if you use acne medicine, because treatment can dry or peel the skin.
3. 3Use sunscreen during the day. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant SPF 30 or higher. Outdoors, apply it to skin not covered by clothing, and use shade, a hat and protective clothing as well.
4. 4At night, remove makeup and wash your face before moisturizing. Makeup removal wipes do not replace washing.

How do you choose products?

Start with gentle cleansers and lightweight moisturizers rather than price or packaging. Added fragrance can cause irritation or allergic reactions, particularly in sensitive skin. A colourful bottle can be fun to own without earning a place in the routine, which is awkward news for the bottle. Introduce one new product at a time. For sensitive skin, try a small amount on a small area before applying it across the face.1

For acne prone skin, look for skincare, makeup and sunscreen labelled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores. Avoid greasy cosmetics and choose a water based or noncomedogenic moisturizer. A product carrying that label can still worsen your acne; stop using a product if that happens. Alcohol free products are another useful choice when managing acne.346

Which products should young teens skip?

Skip cosmetic retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids intended for wrinkles, sun damage or uneven skin tone. These are not routine essentials for young skin and can cause redness, burning or peeling. Drying toners, astringents and scrubs can also irritate skin and make acne look worse. A retinoid or salicylic acid chosen to treat acne is a different use from an adult anti ageing routine; discuss suitability with a dermatologist, especially for a younger teen or sensitive skin.14

What if a young teen has blackheads or spots?

Blackheads, whiteheads and mild blemishes can respond to pharmacy acne treatments. A pharmacist can help choose a suitable product containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Lots of deep, painful spots need a doctor rather than a trial of increasingly strong shop products. Acne treatment should sit alongside gentle cleansing, moisturizer and sunscreen, not replace them.35

Treatment strength depends on skin type. A stronger formula is not the automatic starting point for sensitive skin, and choosing several acne products at once makes irritation harder to manage. If adapalene is chosen, the usual application described for teens is a pea sized amount across the entire face after cleansing, rather than a dab on each spot.5

How long does acne treatment take?

Expect several weeks to a few months before a clear difference. Regular use for about three months gives common teen acne treatments time to work. An overnight spot treatment does not mean the spot will disappear by morning. Repeatedly switching treatments can irritate skin and cause more breakouts, so avoid changing products just because the first few days look uneventful.45

What if treatment dries or irritates the skin?

Acne medicines can cause redness, dryness and peeling. For mild irritation, smaller amounts and use every other or third day can help while skin adjusts. Waiting 10 to 15 minutes after washing before applying acne medicine can also help. Keep using moisturizer. If skin is reacting to shop bought products, seek a dermatologist's help rather than adding another active ingredient. Some acne medicines increase sun sensitivity, making sunscreen and protective clothing particularly important.16

Which everyday habits help?

• Leave spots alone. Picking or squeezing delays clearing and increases the risk of scars and dark marks.
• Keep oily hair away from the face and shampoo regularly, especially if forehead breakouts are a problem.
• Wash after sport, but avoid repeated washing throughout the day. Scrubbing and frequent washing can irritate skin.
• For body acne, wear loose, breathable clothing during exercise.
• Avoid tanning outdoors or in tanning beds. Tanning damages skin and can worsen acne.

When should a young teen see a doctor?

Arrange medical help for deep or painful spots, worsening acne, scars or persistent dark marks, or no improvement after a few months of treatment. Hot, swollen, red skin can signal infection; redness can be harder to see on brown or black skin. Acne affecting mood, confidence or mental health also deserves help. A GP or pediatrician can start treatment and refer to a dermatologist when needed. If a teen uses hormonal contraception, discuss skin concerns with the GP because it can affect acne.12356

Prescription options include creams or gels that reduce inflammation or unblock pores, and tablets for more severe acne. The choice depends on the acne's severity and the teen's needs. Do not wait for painful acne to leave scars before asking about treatment.3