Squalane vs hemi squalane: which should you choose?

What is the difference?

Squalane's moisturizing role is clear, but hemi squalane's comparative hydration, texture and tolerability remain uncertain in this comparison. Treat the following as established details for squalane and a checklist for choosing a hemi squalane product, not a claim that the two perform identically.1

What does squalane actually do?

Squalane is an emollient, meaning it helps soften and smooth skin. It is the saturated form of squalene, a component of the skin's natural oil, and is less susceptible to oxidation than squalene. Squalane and squalene are therefore not interchangeable names. Humectants such as glycerine attract and retain water, while occlusive ingredients form a surface barrier that reduces water loss. These roles explain why a moisturizer can contain several kinds of moisturizing ingredient rather than just one.34

Which makes sense for your skin?

Squalane is an option if you want added moisture in an oil like format. For substantial dryness, start with a cream or ointment rather than expecting a standalone serum to cover every moisturizing need. For oily skin, a lighter gel is another option. For combination skin, apply moisturizer to dry areas rather than automatically covering oily areas too. These are general moisturizer choices, not tested outcomes for either ingredient.5

A moisturizer can come as a gel, lotion, cream, ointment or oil, which is a generous number of formats for the same basic assignment. Pick a texture you will use regularly, because a moisturizer left in the cupboard has accepted a purely decorative role.45

How do you use squalane?

1. 1Patch test before facial use. For The Ordinary's serum, apply a small amount to clean skin on the upper forearm, keep the area dry and rinse after 24 hours.
2. 2Do not use the product if the test causes redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation.
3. 3Apply a few drops to the face once daily or as needed, using only unbroken skin. These are The Ordinary's directions for its standalone squalane serum.
4. 4For a cream or lotion in the same routine, apply immediately after bathing to help retain water. This is general moisturizer guidance, not a specific layering instruction for hemi squalane.

What should you expect, and when should you stop?

Mild dryness can improve within a few days of regular moisturizer use; that is a general expectation, not a timeline specific to squalane or hemi squalane. Sensitive skin can react to moisturizers, and occlusive emollients can aggravate acne. If The Ordinary's squalane serum causes irritation, rinse it off, stop using it and consult a physician. See a dermatologist if dryness persists or becomes painful, cracked, bleeding or very irritating.2456