What does centella asiatica do for skin?

What centella does for skin

Centella may appear on skincare labels as cica, tiger grass, Indian pennywort, gotu kola or Brahmi. Its four commonly discussed plant compounds are asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid and madecassoside. Centella has several names, so the ingredient list gives one plant the billing of a small cast.1

Centella is used mainly for hydration and soothing. Its extract is associated with antioxidant, anti inflammatory and moisturizing properties, and it can help the skin barrier retain moisture and reduce redness or inflammation. The skin barrier is the outer layer that helps hold water in; supporting it can make dry or uncomfortable skin feel calmer. Hydration can also make skin look temporarily fuller, but that is not the same as removing wrinkles.2

Centella's plant compounds are also described as stimulating collagen production. Evidence for visible changes from photoaging, which means skin changes from sun exposure, is not definitive.1

What the human evidence shows

One four week study followed 88 women with sensitive skin who used a face cream containing Centella leaf extract, ceramide NP and panthenol. Their global sensitive skin scores fell by 66 percent at week two and 76 percent at week four. The study also reported less redness and discomfort, lower water loss through the skin at weeks one and two, and increased skin hydration. The tested cream gave Centella two supporting ingredients, so it does not get solo credit.2

The study was prospective and self controlled, and it tested one combined cream rather than Centella by itself. Its results are encouraging for that formula, but they do not show how much change came from the plant extract, or promise the same result from another Centella product. Redness and discomfort improved early in the study, while the reported score changes were measured at two and four weeks; those times are not a universal timetable for the ingredient.2

Keep this narrow prevention claim separate from broader promises about scars or skin renewal.3

How to use centella

For longer contact with skin, choose a product meant to stay on rather than a brief rinse off product; creams, serums and lotions are common options. Centella itself does not set a time of day or frequency, so follow the directions for the particular product. Centella does not come with a clock; the product label gets to set its hours.1

1. 1Check the ingredient list for Centella asiatica or cica.
2. 2Before applying a new product to your face, spot test it on your inner arm and wait at least 24 hours for a reaction.
3. 3If your skin does not react, use the product on your face as its label directs.

Is centella good for sensitive skin?

It can be a reasonable ingredient to try: hydration and calming redness are relevant to skin that reacts easily. Sensitive skin is a lay term, not one medical diagnosis; people may notice stinging, itching or burning, with or without visible redness or dryness. A Centella product is still a full formula, so the ingredient name alone cannot tell you whether it will suit your skin.4

When to stop using it

Centella can cause an allergic reaction in some people, including burning or contact dermatitis, a skin reaction to an irritant or allergen. Contact dermatitis can make skin itchy, blistered, dry or cracked, and a reaction can appear within hours or days. Stop using the suspected product and avoid it. See a doctor for persistent, recurring or severe symptoms.15

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, under 18, have a history of liver problems, or have had skin cancer, ask a healthcare provider before using Centella. Centella is sometimes used alongside other medicines or over the counter products for inflammation; do not treat a cosmetic ingredient as a replacement for a prescribed treatment.1