Why is my skin breaking out after starting a new skincare product?

What could be causing the breakouts?

• Clogged pores: Acne develops when hair follicles become blocked with oil and dead skin cells. Some skincare and hair products make skin greasy, and some cleanser formulas cause blackheads and whiteheads.
• Irritation: Overwashing, scrubbing and combining an acne cleanser with acne treatments left on the skin can cause excessive dryness and irritation. Irritating skin can also increase breakouts.
• A contact reaction: Cosmetics can cause itchy, scaly patches, burning or swelling. Fragrances and preservatives are common causes of cosmetic allergy.
• A moisturiser reaction: Emollients, which are moisturising treatments, can sometimes cause blocked or inflamed hair follicles or facial rashes that aggravate acne.

Hormonal changes and certain medicines can also cause acne. Consider what else changed around the same time, including hair products that reach your skin, because the bathroom investigation cannot stop at the face shelf.4

How can I tell if a new product is causing breakouts?

Look at the symptoms as well as the timing. Blackheads, whiteheads and pus filled pimples fit acne; itchy, scaly patches, burning and swelling point toward a contact reaction. Strong irritants can cause symptoms within minutes or hours, while weaker irritants can take days or weeks. An allergic rash usually develops more than 12 hours after contact and peaks around 48 hours. Timing alone cannot tell you which problem you have, which is a lot of authority to give a purchase receipt.24

A dermatologist can identify unclear breakouts and arrange patch testing for suspected cosmetic allergy. Allergy can develop even after years of using a product without problems. Redness can be less obvious on darker skin; pay attention to itching, swelling and texture changes too.23

What should I do now?

1. 1Pause the suspected cosmetic if you develop a reaction. Avoid a known allergen and other products containing it.
2. 2Wash gently morning and evening. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry rather than scrubbing or squeezing spots.
3. 3Choose a moisturiser labelled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores, and look for oil free skincare, sunscreen and makeup.
4. 4Check for overlapping treatments. An acne cleanser plus an acne treatment left on the skin can be too irritating. If glycolic acid is appropriate once irritation has settled, start once or twice a week at night and increase only if tolerated. Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen daily with facial acids.

How long should I try a new skincare product before deciding it does not suit me?

For an acne treatment that you tolerate, allow 6 to 8 weeks of consistent use to see improvement. That is an acne treatment timeline, not a trial period for every cleanser or moisturiser. A cosmetic causing an allergic reaction should be avoided rather than given several more weeks. Burning or stinging from an emollient that does not settle after a few days needs advice from a pharmacist, nurse or doctor.235

Should I stop using a product that makes me break out?

Stop a cosmetic causing a contact reaction. If you have raw or irritated skin, avoid adding peels or scrubs; irritation can delay healing. For irritation beneath a face mask, pause irritating products such as salicylic acid treatments and antiaging products until the skin heals. If a prescribed treatment is involved, ask your prescriber how to adjust the routine.27

When should I get medical help?

See a doctor for deep, painful spots, scarring, numerous spots or acne that is not improving with treatment. Hot, swollen skin or acne affecting your mental health also needs medical attention. Get emergency help for difficulty breathing or collapse after a product reaction.24