DIY face scrub: what to use and what to avoid

What does a face scrub actually do?

A scrub physically removes dead cells from the outer layer of skin. This is mechanical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids to dissolve dead cells instead. Exfoliation is optional, which gives the mixing bowl permission to remain kitchen equipment.2

Should you use sugar, salt or charcoal?

Avoid sugar scrubs, salt scrubs, charcoal products and specialized exfoliating brushes for facial exfoliation. Their ability to remove surface cells does not make them a gentle choice. Scratching cells away and caring for your face are not the same task.13

A glycolic acid exfoliant can remove dead skin and help even out skin tone. Choose gentle products with fewer ingredients, avoid heavy fragrance and introduce fewer new products at once. Do not stack several exfoliating products in pursuit of a faster result: adding products increases the chance of side effects.14

Which approach suits your skin?

Check your current routine before adding exfoliation. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can increase sensitivity or peeling; exfoliating alongside them can worsen dryness or cause breakouts.2

How to exfoliate gently at home

1. 1Choose an exfoliation method suited to your skin and existing products.
2. 2For a scrub or rinse off chemical exfoliator, apply gently with small circular motions for about 30 seconds.
3. 3Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterward.

How often should you exfoliate?

Frequency depends on your skin and the method. More aggressive exfoliation needs to happen less often. Glycolic acid exfoliation a couple of times a week is one option, not a schedule for every face. Overdoing exfoliation can leave skin red and irritated.12

Keep exfoliation at the start of your routine, rather than adding repeated cleansing steps. Follow with moisturizer, then sunscreen as the final morning step. Moisturizer helps retain water in skin; it belongs after exfoliation, not just after your face feels dry.4

What if you just want a clean face?

Use a gentle cleanser without alcohol or abrasive particles. Wet your face with lukewarm water and apply the cleanser with your fingertips. Washcloths, mesh sponges and other tools can irritate skin. Fingertips are enough for cleansing, so the bathroom does not need an equipment department.5

Rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry with a soft towel. Apply moisturizer if your skin is dry or itchy, and avoid pulling on the delicate skin around your eyes. Limit washing to morning and evening, plus after heavy sweating. That washing schedule is not an exfoliation schedule.5

When should you stop?

Stop the product and arrange a dermatologist appointment if you develop skin irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflamed skin reaction. If you are unsure whether exfoliation suits your skin, a dermatologist can help you decide. Severe acne needs medical treatment rather than more scrubbing.2346