Homemade face scrub: what to use and what to avoid

What does a face scrub actually do?

A physical scrub uses granules to remove dead skin cells from the surface. Salt and sugar granules can also create tiny tears in the skin barrier, the outer layer that protects against irritants and helps retain moisture. Bacteria can enter those tears. Harsh exfoliation can strip natural oils, leaving skin drier and more sensitive rather than smoother and more comfortable.1

Cleansing, moisturizing and daily sunscreen are the priorities, even if they make a less dramatic bathroom project. A mask can complement those basics, but it does not replace them.2

What are some homemade face scrub recipes?

Choose a mask instead of a salt or sugar scrub. Milk and yogurt contain lactic acid, which can exfoliate skin and make it appear brighter. Papaya contains enzymes that can brighten skin. These are mask ingredients, not instructions to scrub harder or mix a stronger peel.2

Another homemade option is a sheet mask with your own moisturizer or aloe vera applied to it. Before trying any homemade mask, test the ingredients on a small area along the jawline or behind the ear to check whether your skin tolerates them. A small amount of petroleum jelly around the eyes can help protect the delicate skin there.2

Can you use oatmeal instead?

Colloidal oatmeal is finely ground oatmeal that mixes readily with water, creams and lotions. Its useful role is soothing and holding moisture against the skin, not providing a gritty facial scrub. Colloidal oatmeal binds to skin and forms a protective barrier against irritants. Its moisture holding components and fats help soften skin and improve itching associated with dryness.3

To prepare finely ground oatmeal:

1. 1Put dry oatmeal in a food processor, blender or coffee grinder.
2. 2Process the oats into an even, fine powder.
3. 3Add a little powder to a glass of water to check the texture. The water should quickly turn milky white.

Grinding oats is a preparation method, not a facial treatment schedule. For specific application directions, choose a colloidal oatmeal cleanser, cream or lotion and follow its instructions. Oatmeal is used in facial masks, but it can still cause allergic contact dermatitis, an itchy skin reaction caused by contact with an allergen.3

What should stay out of the mixing bowl?

• Avoid salt and sugar granules on your face because they can damage the skin barrier.
• Avoid lemon juice, lime juice and apple cider vinegar in homemade masks. Their acidity can irritate skin.
• Avoid added fragrance, especially if your skin is dry, sensitive or prone to acne. Fragrance is a common cause of contact allergy.

Do not substitute a strong home chemical peel for a scrub. Medical strength trichloroacetic acid, also called TCA, can cause deep burns, infections and permanent scarring. Chemical peels can also cause darker or lighter patches of skin. Even a lighter glycolic peel needs professional guidance, particularly if you have sensitive skin.4

How should you wash your face instead?

Gentle face washing uses fingertips, so the equipment list is already attached. Washcloths and mesh sponges can irritate skin; scrubbing is not necessary to get your face clean.5

1. 1Wet your face with lukewarm water.
2. 2Apply a gentle, nonabrasive cleanser without alcohol using your fingertips. Do not scrub.
3. 3Rinse with lukewarm water.
4. 4Pat dry with a soft towel rather than rubbing.
5. 5Apply moisturizer if your skin is dry or itchy. Be gentle around your eyes.

Limit routine washing to once in the morning and once at night, with an extra wash after heavy sweating. This is a cleansing schedule, not a schedule for using a homemade scrub. If you use a mask, cleanse gently beforehand to remove makeup, dirt and residue.25

Does oily skin need more scrubbing?

No. Scrubbing can irritate oily skin, and an overly harsh face wash can trigger increased oil production. Choose a mild, gentle foaming cleanser and apply moisturizer after cleansing. For daytime protection, a moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher is an option. To absorb shine during the day, gently press blotting paper against your face for a few seconds instead of rubbing.6

Salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid in skincare products can help reduce oiliness, but they can also be too harsh. Reduce use or stop the product if irritation develops. If blackheads, acne or excess oil remain a problem, see a dermatologist rather than increasing scrub pressure.6

What results should you expect?

A face mask can give an immediate, temporary glow. Coffee can temporarily reduce the appearance of pores by drying skin, rather than providing a lasting change. Check with your dermatologist before adding a mask if you use prescription or other skin medication: some medicines change skin thickness or sensitivity and can interact poorly with mask ingredients.2