Face scrub tools: what to use and what to avoid

Which tools belong on your face?

Mechanical exfoliation uses friction to remove dead surface cells, while chemical exfoliation uses ingredients such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids to dissolve them. Face scrub tools are mechanical exfoliators, even when the packaging gives the brush a job title.1

Who should be careful with scrubbing?

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate mechanical exfoliation better. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark spots after acne, burns or insect bites, because it can increase pigmentation. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.1

How to use a facial scrub tool

1. 1Check your skin first. Do not exfoliate over open cuts, wounds or sunburn.
2. 2Use short, light strokes with a facial brush or sponge. For a scrub product instead, use gentle circular motions for about 30 seconds.
3. 3Rinse a scrub product thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterward, because exfoliation can dry out skin.

How often should you use one?

There is no single schedule for every face or tool. Frequency depends on your skin and the method, and stronger exfoliation needs to happen less often. Stop using the tool if your skin becomes red or irritated. If you cannot tell whether exfoliation suits your skin, a dermatologist can help you decide.3

Do you need a tool for daily cleansing?

Daily cleansing can be done with your fingertips, which keeps the bathroom accessory department out of the job. Massage a gentle cleanser onto your skin with warm water, rinse completely and pat dry rather than rubbing. Apply moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp. Cleansing in the morning and before bed, plus after exercise, is a routine separate from exfoliation; a cleansing schedule is not a scrubbing schedule.6

If you regularly get ingrown hairs from shaving, a gentle face scrub a couple of times a week can help remove dead cells. Cleanse before shaving, use a gentle shaving cream or oil, shave in the direction of hair growth and moisturize afterward. Persistent acne, rosacea or eczema that does not improve with your routine needs a dermatologist rather than more vigorous cleansing.6

Will scrubbing remove the dots on your nose?

Some visible dots are sebaceous filaments, normal structures that help carry oil to the skin surface. They are usually smaller, flatter and lighter than blackheads. Blackheads are acne bumps with a plug of oil and dead skin; sebaceous filaments do not have that plug. Exfoliation can help make filaments less noticeable, but cannot eliminate them permanently.7

Do not squeeze sebaceous filaments. Pressure from nails can irritate or seriously damage skin, and extracted oil returns within 30 days. Pore strips can remove filaments as well as blackheads, drying skin and allowing bacteria in. For clogged pores, salicylic acid dissolves dead cells, while retinoids help prevent clogging. If a gentle routine and products available without a prescription do not reduce bothersome filaments, a healthcare provider can discuss other options.7

Is microdermabrasion just a stronger scrub?

Microdermabrasion removes the uppermost skin layer with a special instrument; it is a cosmetic procedure, not a promotion for your cleansing brush. Crystal treatments loosen dead cells and vacuum away debris. Diamond treatments use a diamond tipped wand to remove the surface layer and collect debris. Treatment usually takes 30 to 40 minutes. Skin feels softer and smoother after the first treatment, while cosmetic improvements build over multiple sessions.4

Microdermabrasion can improve the appearance of enlarged pores, blackheads, fine lines, mild scars and uneven tone. Redness, swelling or sensitivity can last up to 24 hours; dryness, bruising and darkening are also possible. Wear sunscreen because treatment increases sensitivity to sunlight. Discuss suitability first if you have acne, take acne medication, have frequent rashes or cold sores, or have eczema or psoriasis. Ask your provider before trying a home kit. After treatment, contact your provider for bleeding, blisters or swelling lasting longer than a day or two.4

Where do needle rollers fit?

A roller with short, blunt needles that only touches the topmost layer is different from a microneedling device that penetrates living skin. For penetrating microneedling, choose a healthcare provider with special training. The FDA has not authorized microneedling medical devices for sale without a prescription. Risks include bleeding, bruising, pigment changes and infection. Microneedling needs particular assessment if you take blood thinning medicine, have a bleeding disorder, diabetes, eczema or a weakened immune system.5

Clean any home microneedling product between uses exactly as its manufacturer directs, and do not share it. Ask a treatment provider about cleaning, a new needle cartridge for each session and aftercare. Skin can become more sensitive to sunlight and skincare products after microneedling, so follow the provider's instructions rather than treating it like an ordinary exfoliation session.5