Micellar cleansing water: what it does and how to use it

What does micellar cleansing water do?

Micellar water contains purified water, moisturizers and micelles, tiny clusters of cleansing molecules that attract and lift away dirt, oil and makeup. It feels light and almost like plain water. It suits nearly all skin types, including dry and sensitive skin, and can be an option for people with rosacea or eczema.1

Expect cleansing, not acne treatment or wrinkle removal. Micellar water removes grime rather than wrinkles, which is a reasonable workload for a cleanser. Removing excess oil and impurities may help reduce clogged pores.1

How do you use micellar cleansing water?

1. 1Apply a small amount to your hands, a cotton pad or a reusable microfiber cloth.
2. 2Gently massage it over your face.
3. 3Follow with a gentle oil or water based cleanser when removing sunscreen or cosmetic products.
4. 4Apply any toner and spot treatments you normally use.
5. 5Finish with moisturizer, and sunscreen in the morning.

Do you need to rinse it off?

Micellar water typically does not need rinsing. That does not mean it always replaces a complete cleanse: heavy or waterproof makeup can need another cleanser. Micellar water is not toner, either. A toner comes after cleansing, so giving both bottles the same job is an administrative error.1

How does micellar water compare with cleansing oil?

Choose micellar water if you want a light daily cleanser or makeup remover. Choose cleansing oil if persistent foundation, waterproof makeup or sunscreen is the main thing you need to remove. Dry skin can benefit from an oil based cleanser that helps retain natural oils. For oily skin, an oil based formula can contribute to clogged pores or breakouts, so suitability depends on the formula rather than the category alone.2

How does cleansing balm compare with micellar water?

A cleansing balm is one format of oil based cleanser, alongside liquid oils and wipes. The practical choice is similar: micellar water offers a light water based cleanse, while an oil based balm is an option for dissolving persistent makeup. Balm format alone does not tell you which formula will suit your skin. Both micellar water and oil based cleansers can be suitable for sensitive skin.2

You can use cleansing oil followed by micellar water as a water based cleansing step. Using an oil cleanser first and a water based cleanser second is called double cleansing. It is an option for people who wear a lot of makeup, rather than a reason to add every cleanser to the same routine.2

What if you have acne or use acne medication?

For acne prone skin, look for products labeled "oil free," "won't clog pores" or "noncomedogenic," meaning formulated not to clog pores. Remove makeup, including eye makeup, before bed, then wash with a gentle cleanser. Apply that cleanser with your fingertips and rinse with lukewarm water rather than scrubbing. Wash when you wake up, before bed and after activities that make you sweat.3

Be cautious about adding an acne treatment cleanser when you already use acne products left on the skin: too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation. Isotretinoin, a prescription acne medicine, commonly causes dry skin. During treatment, apply an oil free moisturizer while skin is still damp after cleansing and whenever skin feels dry. A rich, creamy moisturizer or emollient, which softens rough skin, can help after bathing.45

Is coconut oil a substitute for cleansing oil?

Coconut oil can remove an initial layer of makeup, but it is generally not recommended for facial use because it can clog pores and cause breakouts. It can also contribute to milia, tiny white or yellow bumps, particularly around the eyes. If you use coconut oil to remove makeup, follow with a gentle water based cleanser and rinse thoroughly to reduce the risk of clogged pores and milia.6

What if cleansing leaves your skin irritated?

Stinging during or just after cleansing is a sign of sensitive skin, not a measure of how thoroughly you cleaned. Cleansers can cause irritation, and washing too much removes surface oils and increases moisture loss. The result can be excessive dryness or dermatitis, meaning inflamed skin. Keep your touch gentle and avoid scrubbing, especially if you have acne.34

Fragrances and preservatives can cause immediate redness, itching and swelling or, less commonly, an allergic skin reaction. Botanical ingredients can also cause allergy. Treat new irritation as a reason to reconsider the product and how often you cleanse, rather than washing harder. If new breakouts seem linked to skincare or makeup, stop products causing them. A dermatologist can help identify the cause when it is unclear or acne continues.34