Why does skin change during the teenage years?

During puberty, changing hormones increase the amount of sebum, the oil made by the skin's oil glands. Oil and dead skin cells can block hair follicles, the openings where hairs grow, and spots develop. Teenage acne can affect the face, neck, shoulders, chest and back. Acne can also affect confidence, body image and emotional health. Those effects are a reason to seek help, not something you have to put up with until puberty ends.23

How should teenagers look after their skin each day?

A cleanser and sunscreen give the routine a clear purpose, without turning the bathroom into a skincare branch office. For acne prone skin, choose gentle products and look for noncomedogenic on creams, makeup and sunscreen: it means the formula is designed not to clog pores.12

  1. 1Cleanse gently in the morning. Use a mild, nonabrasive cleanser and your fingertips rather than a washcloth, sponge or scrubbing tool. Wash up to twice daily and after sweating.
  2. 2Use acne medicine as directed, if you need it. Follow the product label or your prescriber's instructions rather than assuming every treatment has the same schedule.
  3. 3Protect exposed skin when outdoors. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Use shade and protective clothing too.
  4. 4Cleanse again in the evening and remove makeup. Do not leave makeup on overnight or add repeated washes to try to remove every trace of oil.
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If you have acne, skip astringents, toners and exfoliants that irritate or dry your skin. Look for alcohol free skincare. A scrub is not an acne treatment: rubbing with tools can irritate skin, and over exfoliating can cause inflammation. If your hair is oily, shampoo regularly and keep it away from your face, especially when you get forehead spots.13

What can help teenage acne?

A pharmacist can help you choose a treatment such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Different types of acne need different treatment, so choose for the spots you have rather than collecting several acne products at once.25

TreatmentWhat it doesUseful distinction
Benzoyl peroxideReduces bacteria involved in acne.Comes in washes, gels and creams and is often combined with another acne medicine.
Salicylic acidOpens clogged pores and exfoliates skin.Treats whiteheads and pimples and comes in different strengths and formats.
Acne retinoids, such as adapaleneClear pores and treat blackheads, whiteheads and some pimples.Some retinoids require a prescription; adapalene is available without one in the US.
Azelaic acidOpens pores, acts on acne bacteria and reduces inflammation.Can also treat dark spots left after acne clears.
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Follow prescribed combinations exactly. A topical antibiotic, meaning one applied to the skin, is used with another treatment such as benzoyl peroxide to reduce antibiotic resistance, when bacteria no longer respond to a medicine. Applying extra medication does not clear acne faster.5

What if treatment dries or irritates your skin?

Acne medicines can cause redness, dryness and excessive peeling. Apply shop bought treatments sparingly and follow their directions carefully. Benzoyl peroxide can also bleach towels and clothing. If a prescribed retinoid irritates your skin, tell your dermatologist. They can advise on using less, applying it less often or putting moisturizer on first; make those changes with their help. Retinoids are often applied in the evening, and sun protection is part of their use.45

Isotretinoin, a medicine taken by mouth for severe acne, needs close medical monitoring. It must not be taken during pregnancy because it causes severe birth defects. Do not treat prescription acne medicines as interchangeable with ordinary skincare.4

How long does acne treatment take?

Expect about 6 to 8 weeks before treatment starts producing fewer breakouts, with improvement sometimes taking several months. Stick with the directions rather than switching whenever a new spot appears. Acne can flare again, and some people continue to have acne after their teenage years. Do not pick, squeeze or scratch spots: these habits slow healing and increase the risk of scars.14

When should a teenager see a doctor?

Get medical help if:

  • You have lots of spots, deep painful lumps or acne that is causing scars.
  • Self treatment is not helping or your acne is getting worse.
  • Skin is hot, swollen and red, which can be signs of infection. Redness can be harder to see on brown and black skin.
  • Acne is affecting your mental health.
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For chest or back acne, wear loose, breathable clothing, especially when exercising or sweating. If you use hormonal contraception and have concerns about spots, discuss them with your GP because contraception can affect acne.23

What is the best skincare for teenagers?

Choose a mild, nondrying cleanser, noncomedogenic skin creams and sunscreen that meets the protection requirements above. The best choice is a product that meets those needs, not a collection large enough to require stocktaking. For acne treatment, ask a pharmacist to help select the product rather than choosing a strength blindly. Painful or scarring acne needs medical treatment, not another cosmetic purchase.24

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Acne: Tips for managingaad.org
  2. 2Acnenhs.uk
  3. 3How to look after teenage skinderbyshireteenhealth.nhs.uk
  4. 4Acne: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopediamedlineplus.gov
  5. 5Acne: Diagnosis and treatmentaad.org